Testing is underway for the Formula 1 Miami Grand Prix, and the cars are tearing beneath my feet as I cross the bridge to the paddock. I don’t care how many times Netflix has asked, “Are you still watching?” while you binge Drive to Survive, the volume cranked up to 11 imagining yourself at the race (guilty as charged) — nothing prepares you for that first ear-splitting, high-octane roar of a Formula 1 car charging its way through the circuit. The energy is in the air, tangible and amplified by oppressive Miami heat. The smell of premium ethanol and rubber somewhere in the ether is an assault on the senses, triggering a flood of adrenaline and oxytocin into my bloodstream, and putting a smile on my face that leaves my cheeks sore even days later.
Every atom of my being is shaken to the core with each consecutive pass. Screaming by one after another, unfathomably fast, I crane my neck, eyes darting around trying to simply keep up with each car— if you can even call these cars anymore. Spaceships might be more accurate. As I scan the crowd between laps, the watch nerd in me registers some serious wrist game. But I can’t get distracted, there’s one watch, in particular, I am here to see: the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Alpine F1 Team Limited Edition in BWT Pink.
These watches are the second to be released in the same number of weeks, thanks to the new partnership between Alpine Motorsports and Moser announced in February of this year. In an uncommon series of events, it was Alpine that approached Moser to discuss a partnership instead of the more common other way around. Renault (parent company to Alpine) CEO Luca de Meo is a watch enthusiast, collector, and fan of Moser and suggested that Alpine Motorsports reach out. Coincidentally, Moser owners Eduoard and Bertrand Meylan’s father is a longtime Alpine collector, establishing a firm familial foundation for the partnership. An agreement came together quickly in time for the 2024 Formula 1 season but will encompass a multitude of other races Alpine competes in. Only six weeks after the paperwork was signed, the first collaborative watch, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition, was unveiled.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: This isn’t really anything new; it’s just a movement from another watch in a different case. You’re absolutely right. No one can churn out a completely novel haute horlogerie timepiece in the six weeks between signing a contract and presenting a model to the public, but that doesn’t mean it’s a hack job in the slightest. Personally, I prefer this movement in the Streamliner to its alternative.
H Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
The HMC 811 movement was initially debuted in a collaboration with MB&F and we also saw it more recently, skeletonized for the first time in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton at Watches & Wonders 2022, It’s a spectacular-looking movement that is a genuine delight on and off the wrist. It also shows that Precision Engineering AG—Moser’s sister company—is not playing around when it comes to haute horlogerie. Notably this movement uses an uncommon cylindrical hairspring, as indicated by its name. This design offers improved accuracy by minimizing rate loss errors as amplitude fluctuates. This increased accuracy comes at the expense of thickness, but not much, as the new Streamliners are only 11mm thick excluding the domed sapphire crystal.
The case is 42.3mm across and wears barely any longer thanks to the integration of a rubber strap. This integration was first seen on the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Boutique Edition last year. While the Streamliner bracelet is often a highlight, the star of the show on the new watches is the highly skeletonized movement. Dark anthracite brushed bridges with diamond polished anglage stand in stark contrast to the bright satin keyless works and gear train. The cylindrical tourbillon receives a mix of finishes with its external cage in anthracite satin with polished chamfers, satin steel for the regulator, and polished gold for the shock protection system. As much as the tourbillon swirling around at 6 o’clock may draw your eye, you are equally drawn to the translucent blue domed spinel dial at 12 that displays the time. The hands are treated with Globolight inserts while the pill-shaped dial indices are Super-LumiNova for increased legibility in low light. All in, it’s a stunning package that came together at a pace that recalls an F1 race more than it does the typical watch industry timeline. Unfortunately, one thing was missing, and CEO Edouard Meylan’s son was the first to point it out — BWT’s primary color and Alpine F1’s alternative livery are both pink. So, the race was on again to create another watch and the clock was already ticking because what better place to debut a pink edition than the Miami Grand Prix.
Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Double Wristing
While the Moser team started the hunt for an elusive and rare translucent pink gemstone for a dial, there was something else brewing in the background. For the first time in its 196-year history, H. Moser & Cie has decided to partner with an individual. Formula 1 pilot Pierre Gasly was awarded the title of brand ambassador, creating an even deeper connection through Alpine Motorsports. It was clear from the start that Gasly was a watch enthusiast and collector. He says, “Timing is all my life … on and off the track,” expressing not only his interest in accuracy to the millisecond but also an appreciation for the technology and craftsmanship that goes into all aspects of speed, accuracy, and performance, whether on the wrist or the track.
Gasly admits to having a preference for skeleton watches that have readily visible mechanics at hand but collects based on life experience, achievement, and timeless iconic design (although he does not consider himself a true collector). As ambassador to Moser, both Gasly and the brand have hinted that they are keen on exploring weight reduction technology and using materials implemented in F1 into possible future models, but Gasly also suggests he doesn’t need or necessarily want every aspect of his influence to require a connection to racing.
“I have a life off the track as well, and I am just a normal human being and I have interests and normal taste that doesn’t only need to be linked to my Formula 1 activities. There are other things I am interested to develop, maybe not linked with Alpine.”
What these “other things” are we will just have to wait and see. In the meantime, let’s take a look at the whole reason I am here in the first place. The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Alpine Limited Edition Pink Livery. While largely the same as its predecessor announced only 2 weeks prior, this Pink Livery edition is dressed in BWT Pink with touches of Alpine blue. The same curvaceous brushed and polished 42.3mm wide case houses the same calibre HMC 811 Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton movement made up of 171 individual components. Its skeletonized 5N red gold rotor winds in both directions and only minimally impedes your view of the movement through the sapphire exhibition caseback. The one-minute flying cylindrical tourbillon is equipped with two Breguet overcoils and an Alpine blue tourbillon cage. Matching blue hands (again equipped with Globolight inserts) are found on the dial at 12 o’clock. Natural pink gemstone is incredibly rare, so these watches utilize a synthetic stone known as corundum, AKA sapphire, for the vibrant pink translucent dial. Paired with a matching pink rubber strap, you would be hard-pressed to get more Miami than this. The prototype I handled featured a pin buckle, the final product will come with a deployant clasp. Additionally, a bracelet can be fit to these should any buyers be interested in one (and you probably should be, because the Streamliner bracelet is fantastic). The combination of sapphire front and back, a four-screw caseback, and a screw-down crown allows these new watches to be water resistant to 12 ATM, or 120 meters. So yes, this can handle all the podium champagne celebrations you might encounter.
I was particularly surprised at this one-two-punch partnership because of Moser’s unique position in the industry. While undeniably advanced and highly capable, it earns its slogan “Very Rare” time and again, with only 3,000 watches produced each year. Surely a Formula 1 (and other motorsports) level of publicity could potentially catapult the brand into the stratosphere of popularity and demand. This may be exactly what the brand is hoping for, and if so, I wish them the best. But it might not be the best endgame for the average customer. The watch industry is (currently) plagued with waitlists, rapid sell-outs, and all sorts of “earn the right to buy” brand strategies — none of which are appealing and all of which Moser has for the most part avoided. As a result, Moser has cultivated its own “Moser Family,” filled with genuine enthusiasts who love the brand and what it stands for and have been able to purchase and participate in the community without the aforementioned barriers and competition.
Mainstream exposure often comes with increased popularity more potential customers, and more competition to purchase. As a longtime fan of the brand for everything from its S-Tier watches to its sense of humor and lighthearted nature, I can’t pretend I’m not a little concerned that hype culture could ruin something that is organically so good. However, as a general optimist, I’m hoping for the best for all, and I will surely be along for the ride.
Coming out of Miami race weekend Alpine has catapulted itself out of a three-way last-place tie and officially has points on the board. Of course, the goal is always to win, but the F1 season is a long one. Despite Miami being a Sprint, the season itself is a marathon and every point counts. When all is said and done — and I think most of you will agree — no matter how many points the Alpine F1 team has, they will still have some of the best watches in the paddock. This partnership has only just started, and the season was kicked off with a pair of undeniably cool watches that set the bar very high. I cannot wait to see it raised over the coming years both on and off the track.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition in blue is limited to 100 pieces, while the pink is limited to 21 pieces and priced at $98,000 USD. One of the 21 pieces will receive an Alpine blue PVD treatment to the case and be auctioned as a piece unique with all proceeds going to AQUA PEARLS, a nonprofit foundation founded by BWT in 2016. Learn more about H. Moser & Cie, its latest releases, and stay up to date on its Alpine Motorsports partnership on the brand’s website.
