Photos by Jacob Witkin
Another day in watch land, another integrated bracelet sports watch to discuss. This time, it’s from the folks over at Gerald Charles, founded by none other than the late Gerald Genta — the man responsible for the popularity and ubiquity of said integrated bracelet. We went hands-on with the new Gerald Charles Masterlink released at Watches & Wonders 2024; this is the first time the brand’s unique case has been paired with an integrated bracelet (for regular production), which as it turns out, wasn’t a straightforward process.
That case is called the “Maestro,” taken from Mr. Genta’s own nickname. Like many of Genta’s creations, the case isn’t a straightforward shape that we learn about in kindergarten, but rather more distinctive in nature thanks to the addition of some surprising touches. For instance, while the case bezel combo is eight-sided (a Genta favorite), the bottom curves like a smile. The 38mm steel case of the Masterlink has been slimmed down to an impressive 7.99mm and according to Gerald Charles, whereas previous Maestro cases were based on a rectangle, the Masterlink is based on a square, resulting in more compact proportions.
Due to the shape of the case, Gerald Charles had to create an asymmetrical integrated bracelet. According to the brand, it took four years from conception to execution. Essentially, if we follow the bracelet from the 6 o’clock position, we see that the links are initially curved to follow the case silhouette and then eventually straighten out a little but never completely uncurled. On the opposite side, beginning at the 12 o’clock position, the links mimic the bezel’s straight edge. The two bracelet pieces with different center-link shapes meet in the middle, at the invisible clasp with the push-pieces cleverly integrated into the links.
Let’s talk wrist-wearing experience. The Gerald Charles Masterlink wears longer than its official 38mm measurements suggest, as seen here on Jacob’s 6.5-inch wrist; the lug-to-lug clocks in at about 44.9mm. Though there’s not much downward play in the links — the watches have no trouble sitting upright on their own — they can curve comfortably depending on the size and shape of the wrist. Wrists smaller than 7 inches may find the Masterlink slightly too large. The hidden butterfly clasp is a nice addition; it’s super tactile and feels firm.
Gerald Charles takes great pride in its finishes, which I can confirm looks excellent in the metal. The brushed and polished surfaces play beautifully together and the watch as a whole achieves the uber-streamlined look that the brand was going for. For instance, there are no visible screws on the bracelet when wearing it — you’ll have to peek at the underside to see them. It’s important to note that there are three bracelet sizes to choose from: small, (157mm), medium (205mm), and large (222mm) and you can also add or remove half-links to get an even better fit. The rounded square crown is embellished with the classic Clou de Paris and screws securely into the case, playing a role in the watch’s 100-meter water resistance.
The dial of the Masterlink includes a few updates too including thinner numerals, stick indices, and half-skeleton hands, all benefitting from white Super-LumiNova inserts. The vertical stripes on the dial are said to draw inspiration from Italian suits as a nod to the founder’s heritage. Convoluted marketing-speak aside, the execution of the pattern, comprising of two separate levels layered together with stripes in relief, provides depth to the textured dial that isn’t fully captured in photos. The hands and hour markers look like they float above the surface. Gerald Charles offers the Masterlink with either a silver or blue dial, the latter being my preference. Are there similarities to one of Genta’s greatest hits (the one that rhymes with “jautilus”)? Yes, undoubtedly; however, given that the same man had a hand in designing both, is that really surprising?
The back of the watch includes a sapphire crystal porthole for a view of the ultra-slim Caliber GCA 5401 self-winding, micro-rotor movement, made in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier exclusively for Gerald Charles. As expected, finishing and decoration are solid with traditional touches such as vertical Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges, snailing, and circular graining, in addition to brand-designed star-shaped screws and honeycomb patterns. Tech-wise, the 2.67mm-slim Caliber GCA 5401 operates at 3 Hz and supplies 50 hours of power reserve.
The Gerald Charles Masterlink has an asking price of $23,000 USD, which is a significant amount of money for a stainless steel integrated bracelet time-only watch for a brand that isn’t as well known as others that Genta once designed for. For comparison, the current-production steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm retails for $27,400 and the 41mm for $28,600 — yes, there are accessibility issues with certain APs, but I bring this up for context purposes only. Although Gerald Charles clearly put a lot of thought into the quality, aesthetics, and execution of the Masterlink watch, the overall design doesn’t appeal to my personal taste. I’m not swayed that it has earned its ambitious price point, and while the watch tries very hard to be interesting, I’m simply not that interested. For more information about the Masterlink watch, please visit the Gerald Charles website.
