Here’s a Why Not? for you: Italian-run brand Gerald Charles has teamed up with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati for a limited-edition timepiece. The last brand founded by the great Gérald Genta, Gerald Charles has been full throttle since its recent revitalization in 2021 under the management of Federico Ziviani. It’s unclear exactly what may have begotten this collaboration, but both brands have Italian connections (Ducati these days finds itself part of the Volkswagen Group), and sometimes that’s enough. The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 celebrates the 30th anniversary of the Ducati 916 with a carbon case and the brand’s first jumping hour display in over a decade.
We’ve covered the Gerald Charles Maestro in numerous forms, but this is the first time we’ve seen one in carbon (though the Maestro 8.0 GC Sport Squelette had a black titanium case). The case is made from marbled carbon fiber with a black ceramic bezel and a grade 5 titanium caseback. It all adds up to a very modern lo0k and a lightweight wrist presence. To be sure, the black case with the bright red strap gives the watch a speedy edge befitting this collaboration but belying the quirky case shape. In fact, all three materials used are designed for high-end motorcycle construction. I’ll acknowledge that the Maestro case is the thing that trips most people up: the asymmetrical case. For my part, I’ve come to appreciate the novelty and the Victorian parlor mirror shape (my description, not theirs).
On the wrist, the vulcanized rubber strap isn’t quite as soft as some FKM straps but is stylish and certainly comfortable enough. The strap closes with a titanium buckle, but I did find it disappointing that it isn’t quick-release. GC offers quite a few versions of this strap, and swapping them out could’ve made for some fun combos. The case itself measures 39mm wide and 41.9mm long with a thickness of 11.15mm. The shape of the case, of course, makes this wear a bit larger. The thickness is well beyond the 8.7mm of other Maestros and, in fact, approaches the thickness of the automatic Maestro chronograph. The case is finished with an easy-to-use knurled screw-down crown, a sapphire crystal, and a 100m water resistance for all your underwater motorcycle races.
The dial is really where the motorcycle inspiration comes in. The rotating hour wheel features gold spokes like the original Ducati 916’s rims, and the red numbering features a very race-inspired font. The decision not to partially hide the hour wheel means that quick reading relies upon looking at the right part of the dial each time you glance at the watch. I’m sure this becomes natural, but it took me a few extra moments to tell the time (beyond the extra time I usually need for a jump-hour watch). The cutouts of the rim give a peak at the movement, and the single minute hand has the same satin gold finish with Super-LumiNova fill. All in all, this is a fun dial with some overt links to the watch’s namesake bike.
Owners of the new Ducati Panigale V4 SP2 30° Anniversario 916 (a superbike that itself costs close to $50,000) will have the opportunity to have their bike’s serial number engraved on the case back, but for the rest of us, the existing sapphire crystal printing and caseback engraving will have to suffice. Visible through the crystal is the new ref. GCA 3002JH, the first jumping hour movement the brand has utilized in 13 years. This caliber is based on the Vaucher VMF3002 (hence the shared reference numbering) with a jump hour module placed on top of it (hence the added thickness compared to other Maestros). The brand calls this “in-house” and “proprietary developed,” but it’s unclear whether these terms are fully justified. Certainly, Mr. Genta was known for the jump hour complication and we know that the base movement is not exclusive to the brand. What’s unclear is whether or not the module is exclusive, or at least whether the combination of the two may be. In any case, the movement has a custom rotor and operates at 28,800 vph with a 50-hour power reserve.
Apparently, the people at Ducati liked the fact that this model was called the Maestro, a moniker reportedly shared by the 916’s designer Massimo Tamburini. That’s a heartwarming layer to add to the Italian connection, but I think this watch is best seen as simply a cool watch. Like the recent Moser x Studio Underd0g collab, not every partnership needs to have iron-clad justification. Sometimes brands want to make something cool together, and whether you like this particular watch, I think we can all agree that Ducatis and watches are cool. The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 is priced at $42,400 USD and limited to 250 pieces. For more information, please visit the Gerald Charles website.