In regards to dive watches, Doxa has always held a special place in the hearts of enthusiasts. Although the brand’s archives offer a diverse assortment of models, arguably none are more celebrated than the classic cushion-shaped profile of the SUB 300, and it serves as the foundation for numerous different collections such as the Army and SUB 300T. With that in mind, although Doxa’s watches typically wear quite compact for their on-paper dimensions, not everyone has the wrists to support a chunky 42.5mm timepiece, and the new Doxa SUB 200T offers everything that we love about the brand’s classic cushion-cased diver but shrunk down to a 39mm profile that can be easily worn by virtually anyone, regardless of their wrist size or dial preferences.
Creating a smaller version of an existing watch sounds like it would be a fairly easy task, although proportions often need to be altered to create a successful design, and rarely is it as simple as just shrinking everything down by the same percentage. Doxa’s classic SUB 300 has a fairly small dial relative to its case diameter, and had the new SUB 200T maintained the exact same proportions, it would have likely ended up being a bit awkward and cramped on the wrist. Although everything is objectively smaller on the brand’s new midsize lineup, the Doxa SUB 200T has been re-worked in such a manner that it doesn’t feel small or cluttered, yet it still offers a noticeably more compact profile compared to the brand’s full size models. Additionally, despite its slightly revised proportions, the SUB 200T checks all of the same hallmark boxes that people expect from a Doxa diver, and the end result is a highly compelling package that very much feels true to the brand’s instantly recognizable design language.
Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the case of the new Doxa SUB 200T measures 39mm in diameter by 10.7mm thick, with lugs that are set 18mm apart and extend to create an overall lug-to-lug profile of 41.5mm. The top of the case is furnished by a flat sapphire crystal surrounded by a stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel in Doxa’s signature style, which includes both 60-minute elapsed time markings and a no-decompression limit scale that is color-matched to the dial of each watch. The rest of the SUB 200T follows in the footsteps of the brand’s larger models with a solid screw-down caseback and a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, which is signed with Doxa’s trademark fish symbol (also color-matched to the dial). Additionally, due to its smaller size and more casual positioning within the lineup, water resistance for the SUB 200T is less than its full-size siblings at 200 meters, and the side of its case lacks the helium escape valve that can be found on larger models such as the SUB 300T and Doxa Army.
When Doxa first announced the SUB 200T (you can find our initial article covering the launch right here), the brand made a point to include all of its various dial colors as options for the new midsize collection. Consequently, the new 39mm diver is available in eight different colorways that include Professional Orange, Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Caribbean Navy, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and Whitepearl White, plus a new option called Sea Emerald Green, which features gilt accents and makes its debut appearance on the SUB 200T series. Additionally, Doxa is also offering the SUB 200T with the option of either matte (known as “Iconic”) or sunray dials, although Searambler Silver and Sea Emerald Green are exclusively offered with a sunray finish, while Whitepearl White is only available in the matte “Iconic” dial style.
As to why Doxa has decided to limit the finishing options for these three colorways, the main reason behind this decision is rooted in the desire to reduce the amount of aesthetic overlap that exists within the collection. A sunray version of the Whitepearl White dial would be near-identical to Searambler Silver, while a matte silver dial would be so close to white that it simply doesn’t make sense for the brand to offer these two colorways with both “Iconic” and sunray finishes. Meanwhile, the gilt accents on the hands and hour markers of the Sea Emerald Green dial create a noticeably more refined overall appearance, and the sunray finish on the surface of the dial helps to maintain its slightly elevated aesthetic. That said, this is the very first time that Doxa has used this new green and gold colorway, and I could easily see a matte version of the Sea Emerald Green dial making an appearance at some point in the future.
Although the overall design and layout of the dials fitted to the new Doxa SUB 200T series is the same as what you will find on the brand’s larger models, certain details offer noticeably different proportions. For example, the minute hand is a bit shorter on the new midsize models (although it still reaches the markers of the minute track), and the date window at 3 o’clock is the same size as what you will find on the SUB 300 and SUB 300T, which means that it appears larger on these new 39mm watches, and it is also positioned slightly closer to the edge of the dial compared to what can be observed on its larger 42.5mm siblings. Without seeing the two watches side-by-side, these small differences will be very hard for the average person to detect, although it’s important to note that the new SUB 200T is not just a smaller version of the brand’s larger models, but rather it represents a reworking of the brand’s classic diver that aims to provide the same at-a-glance legibility that has been a hallmark of the brand since it first appeared in 1967.
Although Doxa doesn’t list the specific calibers that it uses inside its watches, the new SUB 200T is powered by the same Sellita SW200 automatic movement that can be found inside the majority of the brand’s three-handed models. While the Doxa SUB 300 series uses a COSC Chronometer-rated version of this movement, the rest of the brand’s time-and-date models rely on the standard variety of this highly popular caliber, and just as you would expect, the movement inside the Doxa SUB 200T offers the familiar specs of an operating frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Given that this a function-forward diver that hides its movement behind a closed caseback, the SW200 is an entirely appropriate choice for the SUB 200T, and while there is absolutely nothing remarkable or auspicious about this rather ubiquitous caliber, it is a proven and reliable design that offers near-unparalleled serviceability.
Just like other Doxa models, the new SUB 200T is available with the option of either a stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet or a FKM rubber strap that matches the colorway of each watch. When combined with the eight different dial options and the two different styles of finishing, you get a total of 26 different models within the SUB 200T series, which guarantees that there is something for everyone within this new midsize lineup. The bracelet features completely solid components with single-sided screws for the removable links, while the rubber strap offers a cut-to-fit design with curved end-pieces to create an integrated appearance with the case. With that in mind, regardless of whether you choose the rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, both options are fitted with the same style of folding clasp, which features a double push-button release and includes an integrated extension system that offers incremental on-the-fly adjustment.
Between its smaller diameter and reduced thickness, the new Doxa SUB 200T is an absolute joy to wear, and the natural curvature of its cushion-shaped profile helps the case sit flat against the top of the wrist. With that in mind, although the lugs are 2mm smaller than what you will find on the full-size models such as the SUB 300, Army, and SUB 300T, the end-links flare out past the lugs to meet the edges of the case, and this makes the strap and bracelet feel rather large relative to the overall size of the watch itself. Those with bigger wrists will likely be happy to have this additional presence, although I personally feel that a slightly narrower clasp combined with a more significant taper on the bracelet would go a long way towards improving the overall on-wrist experience. Even still, it is highly encouraging to see that Doxa has not made any compromises when it comes to the straps and bracelets fitted to the SUB 200T, and both options are a solid step above what you typically encounter on watches at this price point.
Given its smaller size and decreased depth rating, the new Doxa SUB 300T is positioned as one of the brand’s entry level models, and it is priced at $1,550 USD when paired with a rubber strap or $1,590 USD should buyers opt for the stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet. While this makes the SUB 200T more expensive than the SUB 200 (which is the brand’s absolute least expensive offering), it still costs less than the majority of the brand’s full-size models, and it is priced the exact same as the SUB 600T series, which offers a significantly higher depth rating but lacks the cushion-case profile that has become emblematic of Doxa as a brand. My wrists measure approximately 6.5 inches, and while I can pull off the brand’s full size models, they do feel slightly too large for me to comfortably wear on a daily basis. The main reason why I don’t already own a Doxa is simply because I have yet to find one that truly fits my wrist, although the SUB 200T changes this, and it offers wonderfully versatile proportions that will work for a wide variety of different wrist sizes, all while still retaining the same fan-favorite design language that has made the brand a favorite among dive watch enthusiasts for over half a century. For more information on the Doxa SUB 200T collection, please visit the brand’s website.
