It’s no secret that watches, in general, are currently getting smaller. This industry-wide trend has worked to reshape public perception of some of the most prominent product lines in the luxury watch landscape, and few brands have benefitted from this shift in sizing as much as Longines. The latest Longines model to take on this new, more compact design philosophy is the Spirit Zulu Time, originally released at 42mm-wide in 2022. Armed with a sleeker, more balanced silhouette that better reflects its vintage-inspired styling, the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm delivers an impressively versatile blend of quality, performance, and style that makes it one of the most compelling GMT options available.
At a full 3mm smaller in diameter than its stablemate, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm’s case offers a dramatically different wearing experience on the wrist. Although the overall shape of the Zulu Time is relatively standard sports watch fare, the operative word that comes to mind when discussing this case is “sharp.” Every facet, from the continuous polished case side chamfer and the tightly packaged case sides to the angular tapering lug profile feels exceptionally crisp, as if it was all carved via laser. The execution of the detailed brushing and the mirror-polished accents is similarly fine, as are the transitions between these finishes. In short, it’s an impressively well-appointed case for the price point and one that sits handsomely well on the wrist, as well. It’s not a truly compact sports watch, instead falling into a balanced and attractive middle ground that flatters a variety of wrist sizes (the overall footprint on the wrist is close to the Tudor Black Bay 58, as an example). The considerable 13.5mm overall thickness does make this case sit more prominently on the wrist than some of its contemporaries, but Longines divides this thickness reasonably between the caseback, mid-case, and a coin edge rotating bezel. Our review sample tops its stainless steel main case body with an optional 18k yellow gold bezel, along with a matching unguarded screw-down crown. These two-tone gold elements add to the sense of luxurious vintage warmth prevalent throughout the design and complement the gilt dial smartly. Longines also leans further into this golden warmth with a gilt 24-hour scale for the glossy black ceramic bezel insert. For those who prefer a bit less flash, however, the Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is also available with a full stainless steel case. Longines finishes this case with a relatively simple solid engraved caseback and rates the watch for a solid 100 meters of water resistance.
Those familiar with the Longines Spirit line should find few real surprises in the Spirit Zulu Time 39mm’s dial, but this returning blend of elements is fine-tuned into arguably the series’ most attractive look. This is a decidedly luxe take on the core pilot’s watch concept, with judiciously applied gold accents for the straight sword handset, the arrow-tipped GMT hand, the clean applied Arabic numerals, and the edge of the raised outer chapter ring. Gilt dial text and a semi-gloss black main dial surface work to further establish the vintage feel of the design without resorting to sometimes-controversial choices like exaggerated dial textures or faux-tropical brown hues. With that said, this particular Spirit Zulu Time 39mm does opt for khaki “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova, which remains a hot-button issue for some enthusiasts. In this context, however, it reinforces the softly aged look of the watch on the wrist. Where this dial truly excels, however, is its proportions. Each of the hands is expertly sized, both relative to their respective scales and each other, while the dial’s negative space feels neither cramped nor empty thanks to the 39mm diameter. Even the dial text is deftly balanced, with the applied Longines winged hourglass at 12 o’clock visually counterweighted by the Spirit line’s applied five-star emblem at 6 o’clock.
Longines powers the Spirit Zulu Time 39mm with the same ETA-based L844.4 automatic GMT movement as its larger counterpart. This is a thoroughly modern, solidly appointed powerplant, with a high-tech silicon balance spring and a robust 72-hour power reserve at a 25,200 bph beat rate. Even better, the L844.4 is a COSC-certified chronometer movement, and our testing period confirmed this stellar accuracy at an average of +2 seconds per day. As an added bonus, this is a “true GMT” movement, allowing wearers to quickly adjust the local hour hand on the fly. Longines paired our review sample with a supple, detailed mahogany brown leather deployant strap featuring off-white contrast box stitching. It’s a comfortable, classic option fit for a variety of occasions, but the brand also offers the Spirit Zulu Time 39mm with a single-piece fabric NATO strap (in either khaki brown or sage green) or a sharp three-link bracelet in stainless steel.
Longines has embraced the current trend towards smaller watches more effectively than most other brands in the industry, and its new more compact, focused design concept is already beginning to pay dividends. The new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is one of the most attractive and compelling results of this shift in philosophy, refining the Zulu Time’s already handsome design and excellent build quality to deliver a true front-runner in the hotly contested sub-$5000 GMT race. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is available now through authorized dealers. Starting MSRP for the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm stands at $3,050 USD, but our two-tone test sample is priced at $4,200 USD. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.
