Photos by Jake Witkin
Collaborations and customizations have become mainstream in the watch industry in recent years, yet I’d argue that no one does it quite like Massena LAB — an outfit that “conceives, designs, and develops unique, limited-edition timepieces with independent watchmakers from around the world.” H. Moser & Cie. is the latest independent watchmaker that has tapped into Massena LAB’s expertise. Together, they’ve launched the limited edition H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax watch, which we recently had the pleasure of going hands-on with.
To create the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, the duo draws cues from historic Moser chronographs from the 1940s. The mid-century sector design inspiration is immediately apparent, with the Endeavour’s classic “compax” layout comprising two registers at 3 o’clock (for the small seconds) and 9 o’clock (for the 45-minute chronograph), framed by multiple scales. There’s the tachymetric scale around the periphery and chronograph graduations towards the center. The vintage Moser logo is a nice touch.
This being a Moser creation, the color of the dial plays a big role in the watch’s personality. Funky Blue is what was chosen, and as expected, the fumé dial is flawlessly executed. On the other hand, the printed Super-LumiNova numerals and graduations are a touch too green in the metal, and they almost appear a little sickly. However, green and blue are complementary colors, so the overall effect ends up working. The dial is no doubt busy, much busier than what we’re used to with contemporary Moser, but it’s still legible. I think the negative space at the center of the dial helps to tone down the otherwise jam-packed face.
Commenting on the watch’s departure from the pared-down approach we’ve come to expect from Moser today, Massena LAB founder, William Massena said, “Taking inspiration from Moser chronographs from the 1940s, what intrigued me the most during this collaboration was the tension between the maximalist vintage aesthetic of the past and the radical minimalism at the heart of modern-day H. Moser & Cie. Marrying these two philosophies was a challenge, but the resulting Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a watch which links the past and present, whilst looking firmly towards the future.”
The dial is nestled inside a 41mm stainless steel case, measuring 13.3mm thick. On paper, these are larger dimensions than the three-hander Moser Endeavour watches (40mm in diameter and 11.2mm thick), which is to be expected from a chronograph. However, on the wrist, it’s not as noticeably thicker or heavier as you’d anticipate. Seen here on my colleague Jake’s 6.6-inch wrist, it wears perfectly and I suspect it would work for a wrist as small as 6″ if they don’t mind larger watches. The chronograph pushers are not too tall, flanking the notched crown decorated with an “M.” Pusher actuation is firm and responsive — no “mushiness” whatsoever.
The sapphire crystal caseback offers an expansive view of the movement inside the chronograph. H. Moser & Cie. opts for its standard in-house HMC 220 automatic movement combined with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. The caliber operates at 21,600 beats per hour and supplies the Endeavour Chronograph Compax with three days of power reserve via the bi-directional pawl winding system. As is customary for the watchmaker, the movement is decorated with Moser Stripes, a bespoke take on the classic Côtes de Genève pattern that alternates wide and narrow stripes.
Finally, the Endeavour Chronograph is paired with a brown kudu leather strap with white thread stitching and a steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo. Super comfortable on the wrist, the strap looks a little lived-in and successfully leans into the old-school vibe the watch is after.
As the first Endeavour Chronograph, I think the piece is excellent. It looks good in that vintage-esque sort of way yet benefits from the lovely splash of color that Moser does so well. A bit of old, a bit of new, this two-way collaboration produced a handsome piece that will surely be popular within certain collector circles.
Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., explains, “The Endeavour Chronograph Compax model is more than just a watch: It is a timeless declaration, a bridge between the past and present, and a marvelous illustration of the ability of both brands to push the limits of innovation ever further, whilst celebrating the watchmaking heritage of H. Moser & Cie. It does not settle for simply telling a story; it takes you on a journey, immersing its wearer in a world where time meets discovery and innovation.”
The H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax watch is limited to 100 pieces, and priced at $27,600 USD. It will be available exclusively through H. Moser & Cie. and Massena LAB’s e-commerce platforms and the H. Moser & Cie. boutique. For more information, please visit the websites of H. Moser & Cie. or Massena LAB.
