Photos by Ed Rhee
This is yet another Chopard Alpine Eagle timepiece that shows how well Chopard can compete with its successful bracelet-based product in what is very much a crowded space of options. Swiss Chopard is able to offer a titanium case and bracelet, and an ultra-thin automatic movement for less than the cost of what many competitors charge. I understand that the Alpine Eagle doesn’t have the social popularity of a Nautilus, but it certainly feels like a much better value, and value is more important than ever these days to a growing number of enthusiasts. This particular Chopard Alpine Eagle is the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT (Reference 298630-3001). Accordingly, it has a 41mm wide all-titanium case and a thin in-house automatic movement that is partially skeletonized.
Not all Chopard Alpine Eagle watches get L.U.C department movements. If you recall, Chopard’s timepiece products are somewhat stratified with Chopard L.U.C models being at the top (if you don’t count Ferdinand Berthoud, that is) of the ladder. Most Alpine Eagle watches have in-house movements, but not all receive L.U.C levels of finishing. In this instance, the 3.3mm thick Chopard L.U.C caliber 96.17-S automatic movement offers a thin wearing experience, as well as a very attractive mechanism to admire in its semi-skeletonized state. The movement operates at 4Hz with 65 hours of power reserve (between two mainspring barrels) and uses a solid gold automatic micro-rotor.
Again, the resulting watch case is only about 8mm thick and 41mm wide, with 100 meters of water resistance. The case and bracelet are made in-house at Chopard out of grade 5 titanium, but given lovely contrast polishing and brushing very much like you’d find in a steel watch (but wearing significantly lighter on the wrist). While I really like the heft and precisely cut parts of steel or gold Alpine Eagle models, I must admit that the sporty lightness of the titanium models has always intrigued me. I still think longingly about the first titanium Alpine Eagle model I wore, which was the Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. What makes this Alpine Eagle 41 XP different is not only the thinner case profile but also the dial design (and of course the lower frequency mechanical movement). Otherwise, those two titanium Alpine Eagle models are not that different.
Chopard’s approach to skeletonization is a clear balancing act of legibility and aesthetics. Many skeletonized dials end up looking quite asymmetrical or random when compared to the overall composition of the case. More so, very few of them are actually legible in terms of reading the time. The first correction that designers need to implement on skeletonized dials is to make sure that both the hands and hour markers are easy to see, and that they contrast well with the rest of the case. I think Chopard did an admirable job of that in this instance, with the lume-painted hour markers that connect to the peripheral minute marker ring as well as the prominent hands. Chopard also created a skeletonized motif with concentric circles, which actually help keep your eyes from being too distracted by the various skeletonization elements. Thus, on the one hand, you have a nice view into the workings of the movement where the dial of the watch very much feels like the top bridge of the movement, but you also have a daily-wear timepiece that doesn’t make reading the time a chore or challenge.
I also like that the overall monochromatic theme is broken up by the gold/brass tones in the movement. This offers a bit of warmth and prevents the overall color palette from being too boring. That said, gray nearly universally matches other colors you might wear, so that further helps with this version of the Alpine Eagle being fashionably versatile and thus a better long-term wearing investment for buyers. Clearly, not everyone is going to be as excited about the skeletonized dial, but I must admit that when done well (as is the case here), they can add a welcome visual pizazz to even otherwise high-end timepiece-wearing experiences.
As of now, this 2024-released Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT watch is the only model in the Alpine Eagle collection to feature the caliber 96.17-S skeletonized movement. It is possible that Chopard will outfit future models in other materials such as gold with this movement, or that they will experiment with additional dial colors and maintain the excellent titanium case. Most people select “solid dial” watches, but the skeletonized models can draw more initial attention than comparatively more conservative options. How does this Chopard Alpine Eagle measure up for you when compared with the other versions of the model family Chopard currently produces? The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Reference 298630-3001 is priced at $26,500 USD. For more information, please visit the Chopard website.
