Dual-time watches aren’t a new concept for Cartier. In the past, we’ve seen the handy complication on the Tank, Tonneau, and even the Ballon Bleu. However, this year marks the first time Cartier has added it to the revamped Santos de Cartier collection. Adding an extra time zone to the dial feels like a perfectly natural move for the Santos, which has roots in aviation dating back over a century. But I’m most curious how the watch-collecting masses will accept the new subdial among a collection of primarily three-hand watches. The Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time adds function to the historic aviation-inspired model line and brings a bit of versatility to the broader Santos collection.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s refreshing to see a Santos de Cartier with a new complication, but have Cartier’s latest efforts taken away from the minimalism that has become the modern collection? It’s entirely subjective because many will welcome more innovation and functionality while others will adopt a less-is-more attitude about Cartier’s latest 2024 novelty. Criticism aside, I think the brand has incorporated the new subdial nicely, tucking it neatly between 5 and 7 o’clock and presenting it in a light gray color to match the rest of the dial. The round shape is reminiscent of the Ballon Bleu Dual Time and complements the other “shapes” of the dial. While the rest of the dial is presented in all gray, I appreciate how Cartier played with different hues and textures to maintain legibility. The silvered Roman numerals have a nice polished finish to match the polished bezel, and Cartier’s signature railroad “Chemin de Fer” minute track is in a lighter shade of gray with gray lume at each hour marker. I imagine the all-silver look of the watch will be a hit with most collectors.

It appears that Cartier intended for the subdial to be as legible as possible by decorating it with a small hour hand-filled with lume. Now that I’ve had a chance to inspect the watch further, the small register — which has a thin-font “Dual Time” branding and a concentric pattern — isn’t as easy to read at a glance as I would have hoped. Cartier could have left out most of those design elements, and the subdial would have been more legible, in my opinion.  Still, I can see what the brand’s intention was by displaying it in a different texture than the sunray-brushed dial. Interestingly, the calendar window that usually occupies the space where the new subdial now sits has been moved to 3 o’clock.

At its core, the Dual Time is a large model Santos de Cartier featuring a similar case shape, blue synthetic spinel, and exposed screws. The main difference is that the watch acts as a true dual time by simultaneously displaying two time zones on the dial. This complication is separate from a GMT, which usually requires a 24-hour scale somewhere on the bezel or dial and a dedicated hand for the extra time zone. The new Cartier Dual Time is also slightly bigger than the standard large model Santos at 40.2mm across the width of the case and 10.1mm thick. For comparison, the large model is 39.8mm wide and 9.38mm thick.  Still, it features similar short and curved lugs to help the watch sit flush against the wrist and the convenient QuickSwitch system for swapping out the bracelets on the go. It’s worth mentioning that the interchangeable strap system is proprietary, which limits the wearer to only Cartier straps and bracelets.

The existing time-only Santos de Cartier features the caliber 1847 MC, an automatic movement developed and manufactured in-house. Cartier has modified an outsourced movement to accommodate the dual-time complication rather than create an entirely new one. Collectors will undoubtedly have reservations about it, but the outsourced movement has advantages, such as an ever-so-slightly longer 48-hour power reserve, compared to the caliber 1847 MC’s 42 hours. This move isn’t all that surprising, though, considering that truly in-house movements are a relatively new venture for the Maison.

Love it or hate it, the Santos de Cartier Dual Time might be here to stay.  We could not confirm, but there were whispers at Watches and Wonders that Cartier might be expanding upon the model with smaller sizes. Either way, I’m sure the watch will be a smashing success among those who appreciate the functionality of a dual-time watch and the enduring style of the Santos. The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time (Ref. WSSA0076) watch is priced at $9,150 USD. For more information, please visit the Cartier website.