The all-polished chunky steel case of the Chronofigher GMT reminds me of many Breitling watch cases. The 24 hour indicator bezel now rotates (the previous versions didn’t) and the bezel insert is black ceramic. Easily the most interesting part of the case is the chronograph pusher mechanism which is built mixed in with the crown.
Serving little actual functional use, the chronograph pusher system is part of the toy element of this timepiece. Inspired by historic triggers of various types, what you have is a unique system which builds on the base Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement architecture. The trigger is used to start and stop the chronograph via a button that is actually in the crown (similar to many monopusher chronographs), and a separate pusher above it is used to reset the mechanism. This adds a lot of visual appeal (and parts) to the case, and of course makes the watch more fun. The fact that the crown is sort of packed between these parts makes it is a bit more difficult to use, but it is a logical and not particularly burdensome sacrifice to make in exchange for having the added style that one clearly comes to the Graham Chronofighter watch line in search of.
The Graham caliber G1733 (as they call their version of the modified movement) is an automatic operating at 4Hz with 48 hours of power reserve. Complications include the time, big date indicator, GMT hand, and 30-minute chronograph. I do like this assortment of complications, but feel that the big date indicator window could be nicer. There are these two obvious cut holes in the dial, which I think would be better served with a frame to make it a more attractive window. Actually, compared to some other models, the Chronofighter Vintage GMT has a really decently done date window, but at times it still jumps out at me as the one thing on the dial which doesn’t always look as it perfectly belongs.
Dial legibility is about as good as it can be. The lume-painted hands are nice looking and sized well. Although, they do compete for visual attention with other elements on the dial – as there are many colors and items. With that said, Graham arguably does a better job with keeping the dial clear as compared to say, many Breitling watches, and the overall look of the dial is actually pretty cool. The GMT hand used the bezel scale to indicate the second time zone, and the GMT hand itself is a familiar-looking red triangle with a white lume center.
Over the dial is a domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, and the case is water resistant to 100m with a display case back so that you can view the movement inside. The movement decoration isn’t too bad actually, with easy to appreciate Geneva stripes. Though I don’t like it when you look closely at blue topped screws only to notice that it is just the tops of them which are colored and that the entire screw isn’t blue. Does it really cost that much less to individually lacquer paint the tops of screws blue, versus just flame bluing them?
What keeps me coming back to brands like Graham is their playful nature. If you aren’t into planes, war, and other random lifestyle elements of activity and wrist watch history, then Graham isn’t going to appeal much to you. And that is OK. The great part of watches such as this is that you immediately know based on looking at them whether or not they fit into your lifestyle (and choice of toys). Graham – and other luxury watch brands – who specialize in such “toy-style” sport watches primarily have a weakness when it comes to pricing. Inherently high compared to what a mass audience can spend, their goal is to always seek out rich people who still like to play. They are out there, and ironically they are often even wealthier than the suit and tie watch wearing crowd. So Graham’s real effort (and it isn’t to be taken lightly) is to convince the right people to play with their goods.
The Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT is an improvement compared to its predecessor models in almost every way when it comes to design, comfort, and value. It is still a polarizing product, but that is OK. At the end of the day the watch continues to be cool, and for that mere fact alone it will find devotees. Price for the Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT is 6,950 CHF. graham1695.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Graham
>Model: Chronofighter Vintage GMT (reference 2CVBC.G01A as tested)
>Price: 6,950 CHF
>Size: 44mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Guy who is several nice watches into a collection who is seeking something ideal to wear while standing on a historic military tank (that ideally he owns) and yelling about going to battle (with no one in particular).
>Best characteristic of watch: Manages to be an attractive mixture of parts and design resulting in a distinctive look which evokes the vintage military men’s watch theme nicely. Chronograph trigger system might be pointless, but it is fun.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Despite being a cool package with an interesting look, Graham doesn’t really offer enough personality to its individual watches to help customers choose them. Date window might benefit from design tweaks. Dial legibility is passable but not ideal. Still an expensive watch despite a more reasonable price.
