Another crystal shows a view to the movement through the caseback. This feature has nothing to do with the tool-watch spirit of the Classic Cosmonauts and appears to be directly related to the understandable modern trend of showing off mechanical movements in mechanical watches. A mechanical movement almost always commands a price premium over a quartz watch, which means that owners (and the people they show their watches too) appreciate the reassurance of seeing the movement inside of the case. Fortis uses a mostly undecorated version of the 7750, which is a bit of a shame at this price point. I think it would have helped the value proposition of a watch like this to have a decorated movement inside of it.
What makes me the happiest about the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m. watch is the dial quality. Sure it isn’t groundbreaking in terms of design, but it is well-made and straightforward. Fortis is even able to add a bit of polished sheen in the form of the dial’s slight sunray finishing. The hands are all matte and the orange parts on the chronograph hands assist with legibility. Dial information includes all the features of the 7750 movement (4Hz/28,800bph with about 42 hours of power reserve) being the time, 12-hour chronograph, day of the week, and date. In terms of overall looks, the design of the Classic Cosmonauts watch is totally retro – but offered in the convenience of a new watch package.
Personally, I would have preferred the black Ceramic bezel to this steel one in terms of material choice. With that said, I felt that the matching steel tones of the Steel a.m. made for a handsome look – so I chose style over substance in this case. I also chose the steel bracelet option that Fortis offers with the Classic Cosmonauts. The three-link steel bracelet with a polished center-link is another nod to Rolex (and the Daytona). Being a bracelet guy I like this choice from a style perspective, but I have to say that the bracelet quality is not on par with the case quality.
Fortis relies on suppliers for these parts, and it is extremely common for the case and bracelet of any given timepiece to be produced by separate suppliers. It isn’t that the bracelet isn’t good, but it doesn’t feel as high-end as it should for a watch at this price. If you prefer bracelets to straps, then the Classic Cosmonaut’s bracelet will be comfortable and hassle-free. If you aren’t sure what case-attachment option to choose from, then I would advise you consider the strap options based on the fact that the bracelet simply doesn’t offer anything special.
I call the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts a good “dad watch” because it asserts itself as handsome, conservative, strong, soft-spoken, inoffensive, and versatile. Fortis claims the visual design of this model is based on “the first chronograph being in open space.” Again, I don’t know the history of that – and that story alone doesn’t sell watches to a consumer like me. The fact that the dial-style has been tried and tested over many years has more value to me.
Moving forward, Fortis should focus on asserting the value proposition of a product like this a bit more since the circa $3,000 price market is very competitive. No, you can’t get a brand new Omega or Rolex for this money, but there is a lot out there for this money and less with the same movement and overall componentry. Fortis does a few things very well in the Classic Cosmonauts – and those things help keep this classic going and going. Though to be truly competitive with many of the brands who have been staying traditional, Fortis needs to ensure that today’s consumers form a personal relationship with their products first, and then the brand. Price for the reference 401.21.12 Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m. watch is 3,360 CHF on a strap and 3,630 CHF on a steel bracelet. fortis-watchshop.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Fortis
>Model: Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m. reference 401.21.12 as tested
>Price: 3,630 CHF as tested
>Size: 42mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes, as a conservative tool watch with a modern size and light-colored dial.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone with a soft spot for Russian space exploration history and the lifestyle to accommodate an easy-to-live-with Swiss sports watch from a brand with real tool watch history.
>Best characteristic of watch: Fortis gets the dial mostly right, which means that the watch looks and performs well. Comfortable wearability and style along with features that are very familiar.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Fortis was light on adding original aesthetic elements to the overall design. Bracelet quality isn’t as good as case and dial quality. For the money the movement could have likely been decorated. Case looks too much like a ballooned Rolex Daytona (though some people are after that).
