Having quietly discontinued much of the Cellini line, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 is Rolex’s all-new dress watch collection. The name ‘1908’ is a reference to the date the Rolex trademark was officially registered in Switzerland — and it isn’t just the name, but also the styling that throws us back a century.

Specifications

Brand: Rolex
Model: Perpetual 1908
Dimensions: 39mm-wide
Water Resistance: 5 bar
Case Material: 18k yellow gold or 18k white gold
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather with double-folding Dualclasp
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire crystal
Movement: New Rolex Caliber 7140 with Syloxi silicon hairspring
Power Reserve: Approximately 66 hours
Operating Frequency: 4Hz
Price & Availability: 21,000 Swiss Francs, available immediately

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch (or Rolex 1908 for short) features a 39mm-wide case in 18k yellow gold. A polished finish dominates the case while the bezel is reminiscent of the double-bezel on previous Rolex dress watches: It is fluted first and domed near the crystal. Water resistance is down from the Rolex-standard 100m to 50m, but that is understandable given that the Rolex 1908 watch only comes on a leather strap and not on a bracelet.

At Watches & Wonders 2023 the transparent sapphire caseback has begun its return to select Rolex watches and the Perpetual 1908 is no exception. A wide crystal reveals the new Rolex Caliber 7140 which is an in-house movement, of course, offering a 66-hour power reserve replenished by a massive golden rotor. Interestingly, the Rolex 7140 uses the brand’s Syloxi hairspring in silicon, a technical feat that previously had been reserved to just a select few ladies’ watches. This silicon hairspring has a patented geometry that ensures greater regularity between various positions.

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is available with a white or black dial, both oozing radiating with a strong vintage, shall we say, historic vibe. Rolex calls these dials a “miniature work of art” which is rare for Rolex, taking pride in the brand’s in-house dial making know-how that allowed for the greater refinement. Having learned from the legibility issues with the Cellini, the dial of the Rolex 1908 will offer better contrast between the dial elements and their background, and the domed crystal with anti-reflective coating to further improve legibility.

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Reference 52508 is priced at 21,000 Swiss Francs. You can learn more at the brand’s website.