After years of brands putting out a model with a new color on the dial and calling it different, I’m happy to finally see an emphatic return to one of a great eras of watches: stone dials. While we’ve seen plenty of meteorite dials, and small brands seem to be testing the waters with the occasional malachite, for the most part, stone dials are a relic of the 70s and 80s. But they’re relics well worth unearthing and revisiting, and for Watches and Wonders 2023, that’s exactly what Rolex has decided to do with a trio of new Day-Date models in carnelian (128348RBR), turquoise (128349RBR), and green aventurine(128345RBR)—plus a curveball with three puzzle piece models!
Specifications
Brand: Rolex
Model: Day-Date
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: White Gold, Yellow Gold, Everose Gold, or Platinum (depending on the dial)
Strap/Bracelet: President bracelet with concealed folding clasp
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire crystal
Movement: Rolex 3255
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Operating Frequency: 28,800 vph/4hz
Price & Availability: $43,900+ USD
The cases of these new models are all 36mm models, which may disappoint some. While the puzzle dial has the classic fluted bezel, the other models are instead set with diamonds. Knowing the phenomenal work Rolex does with its gem-setting, these will likely be stunning. The crowns are of course branded and features the Twinlock screw-down system that helps to facilitate the 100m water resistance of the models. Depending on the dial you opt for, you’ll get either 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white gold, or Rolex’s proprietary Everose 18ct pink gold. The orange puzzle dial is available in yellow or white gold, while the turquoise puzzle dial is available in Everose. It’s worth noting that for the stone dials, the release is more about the dials than the configurations: the stone dials with diamond-set hour markers will be available in a total of 18 configurations, including platinum options for the turquoise dial. They all feature sapphire crystals with a cyclops for the date and screw-down casebacks and are fitted with matching President bracelets with concealed folding Crown clasps.
Back when stone dials were having their moment, Rolex offered no fewer than 126 different configurations of stone dials. (If you can imagine, dealers could actually order them back then. That’s right, a dealer could ask for and receive a specific Rolex!). The offerings were myriad, from lapis lazuli to malachite to onyx. There were even a few made with actual fossils! While the brand actually offers a couple of stone dials (turquoise, eisenkiesel, mother-of-pearl, and meteorite), this year, Rolex has reached back to those halcyon days. While a turquoise was already available in a yellow gold case, it’s joined by orange-red carnelian and green aventurine. As ever, the arced window at 12 o’clock displays the day in full (available in 26 languages), and the date is at 3 o’clock under a powerful cyclops magnifier. While not entirely new to the Day-Date, the specific configuration of the applied markers (batons with Roman cardinal hours) is certainly less common. That said, when we’ve seen it in the past it does feature diamond set markers as we see here.
The incredibly fun puzzle piece dials add a twist though. The whole idea here seems happiness and love, and that’s evident in the mutlicolored champlevé enameled puzzle piece dials with either an orange or turquoise background and are 10 baguette-cut sapphire hour markers in six different hues. Even more playful: instead of the usual day display, the watch shows off what I’ll call words of affirmation: ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. And the date wheel? Each of the 31 date has been replaced with a different emoji!
The new Day-Dates, like its existing siblings, are powered by the Caliber 3255. This movement obviously features the day and date functions but benefits from all the tech that every Rolex caliber does. The movement has a high-efficiency, temperature resistant Chronergy escapement, a Paraflex shock system, and the brand’s Blue Parachrom hairspring. It beats at 28,800 vph with a three-day power reserve and, of course, it’s a Superlative Chronometer, meaning it’s regulated and tested to -/+2 seconds per day. So confident is Rolex in its movements that it now recommends a 10-year service interval (its watches are covered by a 5-year warranty, though).
These models are a refreshing throwback and add a new twist to the never-ending stream of brands (including Rolex) passing new colors off as new watches. Even if these releases act as an expansion of the current stone dial offerings, it’s a front-page announcement of such watches, which we haven’t seen in a very long time. Add to that the fun and funky puzzle piece models, which are sure to break the internet, and these are truly enjoyable releases. Here’s to more exciting dials like these from Rolex and other brands—at least it’s not just a certain shade of blue. As for pricing, Rolex hasn’t provided it for many of the configurations, but they will start at $43,900 USD for the carnelian in a yellow gold case without diamonds on the bezel. No word yet on pricing for the puzzle dials, which appear to be off-catalog, with no clear reference numbers even provided. For more information please visit the brand’s website.
