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Creating watches that are capable of surviving extreme conditions and environments is one of the main driving forces of innovation within the industry, and arguably nowhere is this more apparent than when looking at the category of dive watches. Moisture is one of the natural enemies of mechanical watch movements, and in addition to being able to survive extended durations of immersion in highly corrosive salt water, the most capable dive watches must also be able to contend with crushing pressures and even the unique challenges of expelling trapped helium molecules, which can result from saturation diving. Founded in 1884, Edox is a Swiss company with a long history of producing high-performing professional dive watches, and it should come as no surprise that the brand continues to create industry-leading underwater timepieces to this day.

In 1961, Edox released the Delfin, which introduced the brand’s patented double O’ring gasket system for the winding crown, and which laid the foundation for Edox to produce some of the most capable and water-resistant dive watches of the decade. Within just a few short years, Edox had become one of the industry’s leading manufacturers of professional-grade dive watches, and models such as the Hydro-Sub were capable of offering users up to 500 meters of water resistance, which was almost unheard of within the industry when it first made an appearance in 1965. Today, Edox produces a number of vintage inspired models that pay tribute to the legendary dive watches from its archives; however, the brand also offers a range of thoroughly modern divers that continue to push the boundaries of purpose-built underwater timepieces. The Edox Neptunian is of the later variety, and it combines a refined and contemporary design with modern materials, professional-grade features, and an immense depth rating of 1,000 meters.

The overall appearance of the Edox Neptunian follows a traditional dive watch layout that is loosely based on the design of a historic Edox model known as the SkyDiver that was created at the secret request of a Swiss colonel for a high-performance watch that he could supply to his elite military group in 1973. With the launch of the Neptunian, Edox takes this rugged and versatile sports watch layout and transforms it into a modern and extremely capable professional diver that is equally at home on land as it is deep below the surface of the ocean. Crafted entirely from stainless steel, the case of the Edox Neptunian measures 44mm in diameter by 15.6mm thick, with an overall lug-to-lug distance of approximately 51mm. The short curved lugs combined with a partially convex caseback make the large and robust case surprisingly compact on the wrist, while the brushed top surfaces of the lugs and high-polished sides are separated by thick bevels that run the length of the middle case and continue to the top edges of its angular crown-guards.

At the 3 o’clock location sits a screw-down winding crown, which is signed with Edox’s hourglass logo and features the brand’s double O’ring gasket system, which contributes to its impressive water resistance. On the opposite side of the case at 9 o’clock sits an automatic helium gas escape valve, which functions as a decompression system and allows trapped helium molecules to exit the case if the watch is worn for professional use inside pressurized chambers or in a saturation diving environment. Protecting the dial side of the watch is a 3mm thick sapphire crystal, which is surrounded by a 60-click unidirectional rotating bezel that has a dark blue ceramic insert with a 60-minute elapsed time scale in bright white lacquer and a luminous dot at the zero-marker. The reverse side of the watch is fitted with a solid screw-down stainless steel caseback, which helps provide users with 1,000 meters of water resistance, and it is adorned with a relief engraving of Neptune, the Roman God of the Sea, which is where the Edox Neptunian gets its name.

When Edox first introduced the core design of the Neptunian, it was in the form of a watch known as the SkyDiver Neptunian, and you will find models in Edox’s catalog that offer the same ultra-durable dive watch features, but with the additional “SkyDiver” name printed upon their dials as a tribute to the original historic model from 1973. The new Edox Neptunian drops the SkyDiver name entirely and it marks a new chapter in the evolution of the collection, as the model completes its transformation into a true purpose-built professional dive watch. Edox offers the Neptunian in a number of different colorways, including some with bright and vibrant dials; however, the reference 80120-3BUM-BUF is arguably one of the most traditional and versatile options currently available, as it is fitted with a midnight blue dial, a matching blue ceramic bezel, and a durable yet durable three-link stainless steel bracelet. The color of the dial is officially known as “Dark Midnight Blue” and it features white text with a glossy surface finish that can almost appear to be a bright navy blue color when viewed in direct sunlight.

Surrounding the dial is a metallic blue angled rehaut with the words “High Pressure Resistant” along with the watch’s depth rating, and since this information appears along the section surrounding the minute track rather than in the center of the dial like on most watches, the Edox Neptunian benefits from a noticeably cleaner and more legible display. The time itself is displayed by a trio of large angular hands, while an automatically changing date window sits at the 3 o’clock location. Just as you would expect from a proper professional dive watch, all three of the hands, plus each one of the raised hour markers are finished with Super-LumiNova X1 for a brightly glowing display in the dark.

Powering the Edox Neptunian and hidden behind the watch’s solid stainless steel caseback is the brand’s Caliber 80 automatic movement, which is based on the core architecture of the popular Sellita SW200. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) and offering users a power reserve of approximately 38 hours, the Edox Caliber 80 movement also offers the conveniences of both hacking and manual winding, plus quickset adjustability for the date display, which allows users to independently set the calendar value without disrupting the timekeeping of the watch. Benefiting from the reliable and easily serviceable structure of the SW200, the Edox Caliber 80 is the ideal movement for an adventure-ready tool watch, and it promises consistent and proven performance, along with the ability to be maintained by any qualified watchmaker or service center in the entire world.

Attached to the 21mm lugs of the Edox Neptunian is a solid-link stainless steel bracelet that tapers down to 18mm at the clasp, and it features solid end-links with brushed sides and high-polished center surfaces. Since the bracelet hinges at the springbar rather than sticking out past the lugs, the overall lug-to-lug profile of the watch remains the same as its on-paper measurement which helps keep the relatively large case compact and comfortable on the wrist. Although the polished center links offer a refined yet versatile design, the clasp offers serious professional dive watch functionality. Crafted from machined stainless steel components, the clasp on the Edox Neptunian features a double push-button latching fold-over structure with a tool-free extension system that provides 10mm of incremental adjustment. Expanding the bracelet is as easy as pulling the two small levers on either side of the clasp while tightening it can be done by simply squeezing the two ends together, and this allows users to adjust the size of their bracelets without having to remove their watches or even open up the clasp on their watch.

Water resistance is arguably the single feature that is most responsible for making wristwatches a viable possibility, and it has been the pursuit of ever-greater water resistance ratings that have allowed this industry to create timepieces such as the Edox Neptunian, which are capable of diving far deeper than any human will ever be able to reach outside of a submarine. With an official retail price of $1,450 USD, the Edox Neptunian also represents a tremendous value given its impressive technical capabilities and the high levels of finishing that can be observed throughout its construction. In addition to being the most modern and refined dive watch model currently available in Edox’s lineup, the Neptunian is also one of the brand’s most capable, and this combination of form and function allows it to be the ideal timepiece for those who seek all of the incredible capabilities of an industry-leading professional dive watch that is equally comfortable existing in everyday life on dry land as it is during commercial use in a pressurized chamber, deep below the surface of the ocean. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.