Emmanuel Bouchet is one of the youngest independent watch brands around. Founded in 2015, its first watch was the Complication One, which displayed time in a rather unusual fashion using sapphire discs that formed subdials. Now, two years later, the brand has announced its second watch, and it is plainly named the EB02. Compared to the Complication One, the EB02 is a simpler watch and about half the price. It displays the time only, but don’t let that fool you – the Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 is no less exquisite.
Before we talk about the watches, it is necessary to talk a bit about the man behind them. Emmanuel Bouchet might not be a household name yet, but watch lovers should certainly keep tabs on this brand. The founder, Emmanuel Bouchet, is actually no stranger to watchmaking and high horology. Bouchet was actually the genius behind the epic Harry Winston Opus 12 watch from 2012 which displayed time using a complex series of spinning indicators. Though the Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One (reviewed here and seen hands-on here in more executions) and the new EB02 watches don’t have spinning indicators, the two watches still embody the sensitivities and philosophies that Bouchet brings to watchmaking.
Alright, now back to the EB02. The Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 comes in a 39mm case, available in 18k white gold and 18k rose gold. It is also relatively thin, coming in at just 9.5mm. It might look simple, but if you take a closer look, you will find that the case is actually quite unusual. For example, it doesn’t actually have a bezel and the case profile itself is actually quite wavy and organic. Next, pay attention to the aperture of the dial and also the highly domed sapphire crystal. This accentuates the three-dimensional qualities of the dial and makes it seem as if the subdials are floating in space.
The Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 will come with a black lacquer dial or a white mother of pearl dial. From the press photos here, they look absolutely sublime. Both dials have a very liquid and crystalline look. But if these two dials are not your taste, Emmanuel Bouchet will also allow clients to customize their own lacquer dials.
As I mentioned earlier, the Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 is a much less complex watch than the Complication One. At 12 o’clock, you have a sapphire disc that displays the time in simple hours and minutes. And at around 7 o’clock beneath it is another subdial that shows the running seconds and also doubles as a day/night indicator. For users who want a little more pizzazz, there is the option to add diamonds on the dial. These diamonds will be suspended on “Emmanuel Bouchet cones” from 3 to 6 o’clock. As far as diamond dials are concerned, this is possibly the most subtle and graceful implementation that I have seen. Sure, some might think of it as a little gimmicky, but I think the overall effect is actually quite cool and it gives owners the opportunity to dress up the dial a little in a very elegant manner that doesn’t scream Look at me! too much.
The movement within is the new caliber Emmanuel Bouchet EB89F, which is also the brand’s first automatic movement. It relies on a micro-rotor for winding, which also explains how Emmanuel Bouchet managed to keep the watch so thin. It has a single barrel and offers a power reserve of 45 hours. The movement is designed to be shaped like a butterfly and the main bridges are satin-finished and beveled. In addition, they have small cutouts that showcase the gear train below. Beneath the rotor and main plates is also some perlage decoration.
With the watch industry facing tough times, the new Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 represents an attempt by the brand at offering more accessible and value-for-money pieces. That is not to say that Emmanuel Bouchet has suddenly become a mainstream watch brand – no, the Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 will still be produced in extremely limited numbers and will still feature very high levels of craftsmanship and handwork. But, it is significantly more affordable than the Complication One watch. For lovers of independent watchmaking, the Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 presents an attractive proposition because of its sublime dial, customizability, and beautiful movement. The Emmanuel Bouchet EB02 in 18k white gold and rose gold is priced at 49,800 Swiss francs. With diamonds on the dial, it is priced at 57,000 Swiss francs. Only 18 pieces in white gold and 18 pieces in rose gold will be made. emmanuelbouchet.com
