Continuing its foray into the tool watch field, Emile Chouriet brings to light (or should I say dark?) its new Challenger Cliff Black, a mountaineering-inspired tool watch coated in a slick, dark black PVD. Emile Chouriet is a brand not often in the limelight, despite having been around for over 20 years. Chouriet usually sticks to dress watches, but the Challenger Cliff Black represents another entry into the brand’s young tool watch collection, with its utilitarian design, dark black case, and radiating blue dial.
The Challenger Cliff Black is a modestly sized tool watch. Clocking in with a 40mm case diameter, it is made out of stainless steel and coated in a black PVD finish. The watch comes on a steel bracelet, which is also PVD-coated, and is integrated into the case, meaning there’s no swapping straps here or popping it on a Nato. The watch is powered by the EC9316 automatic movement, which, in reality, is just an ETA 2824 that has been renamed without any modification. A reliable three-handed movement, with a date function at the 3 o’clock marker, the 2824 is an industry stalwart. This whole package provides a moderate 50 meters of water resistance — ot a huge amount for a sports watch, but understandable for one that draws more on design tropes reinterpreted in a slightly dressier way.
The dial design is quite interesting here. The dial is a radiant blue, with a slight fume/sunburst effect; it almost reminds me of the way glaciers or icebergs look in the sun. A romantic notion, but not one I would mind being called up every time I glance at my wrist.
The 12, 6, and 9 markers are all noted with Roman numerals, whereas the other markers are noted with a simple baton index. I’ve never been a fan of Roman numerals on watch dials, and this Challenger Cliff Black certainly hasn’t changed my mind on this, but the blue dial contrasting against the PVD case is a really attractive look.
This is, no doubt, going to be a polarizing design to many. You’ll either love it or hate it. PVD cases aren’t enjoyed by all (although they also offer this same design in a stainless steel finish), and integrated bracelets usually receive their fair share of Internet groans, as well. However, I applaud Emile Chouriet for doing something different. Prior to the release of its Challenger collection (we reviewed the Challenger Deep, Emile Chouriet’s dive watch, last year), I didn’t pay the brand much mind. In fact, I often forgot the brand existed, as dress watches just aren’t on my radar. But with the Challenger deep and the Challenger Cliff collections, Emile Chouriet has created two tool watch designs that stand out from the crowd, even if they are somewhat peculiar.
As the brand continues to expand the Challenger collection — and hopefully more tool watch collections in the future — I think Emile Chouriet will gravitate toward a groove that suits it and sets it apart. The Challenger Cliff Black represents another interesting option, if the aesthetic matches up for you. The retail price of the Cliff black will be CHF 1,350. To learn more, visit emilechouriet.ch.
