DB Milau is a newer entrepreneur-driven watch brand out there, this time hailing from the Netherlands. “DB” stands for “Dutch Brand,” and the Diadem is one of their first watches, an interesting attempt to merge the look of a sporty pilot-style watch with a Breguet-style dress watch. Odder mashups have happened, and the result here isn’t too bad, from a fashion perspective.
“Diadem” is, apparently, the name of a star in the Coma Berenices constellation, and goes with the brand’s theme that their watches are all “stars.” Other than that, the astronomical name doesn’t seem to relate to the product. The watch begins with a larger case that is 44mm-wide but wears even larger, thanks to the “turnip-style” aviator crown. The 50-meter water resistant case is capped with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. Produced in steel, the case on this “Diadem Rose Gold” model is PVD-coated with a rose-gold color tone. DB Milau also produces the Diadem in a yellow-gold case, a natural-polished steel case, and a black PVD-coated case. Attached to the case is a nice looking padded leather strap with an alligator print embossed on it.
Perhaps the most interesting design element of the DB Milau Diadem is the presentation of the movement through the caseback window. The watch uses a Swiss ETA 2824 automatic (4Hz, about 42 hours of power reserve) in the higher “elaboré” grade, which means it comes from the ETA factory with some polishing and blued-steel screws. Around the opening of the movement base is a sort of spoked frame that looks cool in tandem with the spinning automatic rotor. I’m not sure if DB Milau came up with this design or was inspired by it elsewhere, but it has a neat effect and helps add personality to the overall design.
Over on the dial, DB Milau opted for a Breguet-style formal watch look that pairs surprisingly well with the pilot watch-style case. The dial is stamped (which also comes out nicely) to look as though it is guilloché machine-engraved and has simple Roman numeral hour markers. A date window sits at above 6 o’clock on the dial. DB Milau opted for simple leaf-style hands for the Diadem. These are perhaps the weakest link in the watch, as they could have been more interesting and relate back to the sport watch theme of the case. The hands also feel a bit short, given the overall proportions of the case. I think DB Milau would have a much stronger product next time with a unique set of hands that might blend this traditional dress watch dial and vintage aviator-style case together more elegantly.
Seasoned watch collectors will gripe about this “mashup” product watch, given that it doesn’t aim to articulate any normal theme or improve upon existing concepts. I think that a better buyer for the DB Milau is a more fashion-inclined person who shuns bigger names and wants a trendy look from a really boutique Dutch brand with quite limited retail distribution. There is a market for that, indeed — especially because not everyone wants to scream something about themselves by wearing a big luxury brand name on the wrist.
The DB Milau Diadem isn’t cheap, with a price nearing $3,000. Price-conscious watch buyers are going to point out how many watches at the pre-owned level are accessible at this price point. It is, however, under the price of many major luxury watch brands, and if you love the Diadem aesthetic, then you’ll go for it. Also, note that DB Milau is set up to work with traditional retailers, meaning that these watches are available in stores, as opposed to directly sold to the consumer. One implication of this is good customer service (ideally) during the buying experience. Another is that DB Milau must build a retailer margin into the price. There is an argument to be made about supporting traditional watch retailers — and in the Netherlands, they are actually doing quite well. The DB Milau Diadem Rose Gold watch has a retail price of 2,750 Euros or $2,970 USD. Visit dbmilau.com to learn more.
