Lucky for you Christophe Claret watch lovers that Mr. Claret’s newest piece is also probably his most affordable yet. No, it isn’t going to come cheap at about $100,000 bucks. But that is better than $200,000 right? It does however come with a cool name; “Kantharos.” A strong title – the term is actually quite simple. A kantharos is the term used to describe a form of ancient Greek pottery. More specifically, a drinking vessel. So the watch is like a tall glass of cool water? Not exactly… I think Claret’s motive was to comment on how the high-contrast dial is similar to the high-contrast colors on these antique pots.

The Kantharos uses the same case and aesthetics of the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21, Baccarat, and Soprano watches. It looks like the brand will settle on this case design and dial style for a while to come. While we have just one picture at launch, the Kantharos will be available in five versions. Pictured is the black titanium model, but other versions will includes cases that mix titanium and various tones of gold. The case here is 45mm wide and looks quite sporty for a high-end collector’s watch.

For me, the dial of the Kantharos looks like an angry owl. Am I the only one that can see that? Just look at those grimacing eye brows! I mean hands…. Chronograph subdials make for emotive eyes, and the open window of the constant force escapement makes for a hell of a complex beak. The dial isn’t the only unique thing about the Kantharos, this is truly an original watch when it comes to the complication. Christophe does not disappoint when it comes to cleverly arranging features in a way I would have never anticipated.

In addition to being an automatic (I think a first for Christophe Claret branded watches), the Kantharos caliber MBA13 movement has the time, a monopusher 12 hour chronograph, a constant force escapement (which means that power runs from the mainspring barrel to the movement in a consistent amount no matter how tightly wound the spring is). This helps a watch be more accurate over time, and a sonnerie function for the chronograph.

Allow me to explain this latter function as it debuted on Christophe Claret’s Dual Tow watch (hands-on here). You know how when you press keys on your phone, it beeps to let you know that the key was registered? It is sort of the same thing. When you press the chronograph pusher, a cathedral style gong is hit by a sonnerie hammer to let you know that you “did something.” This is the same type of musical system used in minute repeater watches. Christophe Claret simply calls this function a “mechanical chime,” which is more or less what it is. You can actually see the hammer through a window at 10 o’clock on the dial. Now you have a lot more reason to play with the chronograph. All that complexity for such simple auditory satisfaction…

Not exactly elegant, the dial of the Kantharos is however cool in that “Claret weird” sort of way. There is a ton of horological street cred in a watch like this. Claret can more or less design it to look however he wants because his movements are so cool and I highly admire his modern approach to making watches. The almost controversial oddity of the watch appeals to me in that it isn’t trying to attract any part of the mainstream. Christophe Claret loves making high-end mechanical toys (that tell the time), and his passion is all about the movements. The style of the Kantharos reflects his own personality and ambitions to modernize and keep fresh the honestly antiquated art of watchmaking. We will get a hands-on look at the Kantharos watch soon. Retail price will start at 96,000 Swiss Francs. christopheclaret.com

Technical data from Christophe Claret:

Movement: Calibre: MBA13, self-winding mechanical movement

Dimensions: 31.6 x 10.56 mm (without gong)
37.6 x 10.56 mm (with gong)

Number of components: 558

Number of jewels: 75

Power reserve: 48 hours (approx.)

Escapement: Swiss anchor, 3 Hz (21,600 vib/h), constant force

Functions:
– Hours and minutes
– Mono-pusher chronograph
– Mechanical chime, each time the function is changed (start, stop, reset)
– Patented cathedral gong
– Constant force mechanism visible at 6 o’clock on the dial side and underneath the sapphire bridge
– Platinum automatic weight

Distinctive features:
– Anthracite rhodium-plated main plate and bridges, white or pink gold gears, depending on the version
– Sapphire bridge with gold chatons

Case:

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 15.83 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

White gold/ anthracite titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
– White gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
– Ruby red and black PVD hands
– White gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
– ADLC-coated stainless steel and white gold clasp
– Black alligator strap with red stitching

Pink gold/anthracite titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
– 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
– Ruby red and black PVD hands
– 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
– ADLC-coated stainless steel and 5N pink gold clasp
– Black alligator strap with black stitching

Titanium version:
Rhodium-plated dial:
– Grade 5 titanium (polished/satin-finished)
– Ruby red and black PVD hands
– Rhodium-plated dial back with black PVD chrono appliques
– Grade 5 titanium and black PVD grade 5 titanium crown
– ADLC-coated stainless steel clasp
– Black alligator strap with black stitching

Pink gold/anthracite titanium version:
Pink dial:

– 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
– Black ceramic and anthracite grey PVD hands
– Red chrono hand
– Pink dial back with 5N pink gold chrono appliques
– 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
– ADLC-coated stainless steel and 5N pink gold clasp
– Black alligator strap with black stitching

Black titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
– Black PVD grade 5 titanium
– Blue spinel and black PVD hands
– Blue chrono hand with Super-Luminova arrow
– Anthracite rhodium-plated dial back with black PVD chrono appliques
– Black PVD grade 5 titanium crown, with blue spinel cabochon
– ADLC-coated stainless steel clasp
– Black alligator strap with blue stitching

Numbered series

Public price: From 96,000 Swiss francs, excluding tax