My appreciation for the Zenith Grand Port Royal Open stems beyond the fact that it is a big expensive watch. Feeling that it is a very well designed and interesting watch helps me warm to its rectangular design, which is not typically the shape I prefer my watches. In my opinion, more often than not, a square or rectangular watch focuses more on looking good by itself, rather than on a wrist. This is a huge difference as a watch can look good on a stand, but once you put it on your wrist, everything changes. Alternatively, a watch can look “ordinary” while resting on a table, transforming into a true classic when worn.
The Grand Port Royal are among Zenith’s only rectangular watches, and it is obvious a lot of time was put into the design. Interestingly enough, the watches are not mere squared watches that house an El Primero movement. Instead, the highly modern approach to the design focuses on simplicity and texture, emphasizing minor details and the functions of the watch. Details of interest involve the high grade materials, texturing on the dial, and design of the hands and font for the numbering. The case is self looks chiseled almost, stressing the angularity and displaying an overall faceted look. It is a simple shape that evoke sporty strength without pretention. The dial is framed nicely and displays another world into itself. While the case is simple, the dial is more complex. Functions involve a 30 minute chronograph, and a power reserve, in addition to telling the time. Included is the typical tiny propeller style seconds indicator in the “open” window to the movement. It is sometimes hard to see, more for looks that use, but it is fun to watch. Interestingly enough a date window is absent. Zenith probably decided it would have looked too cluttered with a date window. Actually, many 30 minute chronograph watches don’t have date windows.
The faceted hands are done in rhodium or black nickel, while the power reserve hand is in 18k rose gold (ooh, fancy). The case and dial are steel, with guilloche engraving on the dial in a ‘damier’ pattern. There are two sizes to the case, 36mm x 48mm, or 38mm x 51mm for the XL version. That seems a bit scant for an “XL” version, but so be it. It is still a heftily sized watch, which is a good thing.
Inside is an in-house Zenith El Primero 4021 B movement. Zenith is a very adept movement maker. There are a couple of things about this movement that I really like. starting with the visual aspect, Zenith has always done a good job at making very good looking movements. The rear of the watch has a see-through caseback window, while the dial has an exposed window into part of the escapement. What is different with the El Primero movement is that it actually looks really special. The detailing is so impressive, and this is one of the only non-tourbillon windows that actually like looking through a lot. This is what is meant by the “Open” label on Zenith watches, and I do recommend checking them out. The movement is an automatic, and features a rotor that winds the watch either way it turns. Typically, the rotor only winds when moving in one direction.
This version of the watch is called “White” though it is not purely white. This differentiates it from the black or steel models. You can get the Zenith Grand Port Royal Open on a rubber or alligator strap. Go for the alligator if you can. The strap is alligator (black of brown) on the top, and soft calf leather on the bottom. Really luxurious feeling, trust me. This is really one of the nicer Grand Port Royal watches that Zenith makes. Sometimes they get a bit too experimental with their designs, but this watch really hits spot on. Prices are in excess of $10,000. For more information feel free to contact Zenith North America, they will be very happy to hear from you.
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