Cloisonne-style lacquer is a technique which paints lacquer over an engraved metal surface. The result is very beautiful and almost impossible to replicate in a cheaper form when done correctly. I don’t think this watch is true enamel work since lacquer is a different material to work with, but the result is similar, only that the lacquer is less translucent than oven-baked enamel. The lovely blue lacquered sections decorate both sides of the Virtuoso V watch.

Also interesting on this particular version of the Virtuoso V is that Bovet didn’t open the seconds hand window through the entire watch. The base movement was always meant to be double-sided and includes a subsidiary seconds hand system which can be viewed from both sides of the case. On this watch, Bovet “closed” one side of the watch face with the subsidiary seconds dial only being visible from the other side.

Bovet Amadeo Virtuoso V: Both Sides Of the Case

While both sides of the watch are attractive I found myself gravitating toward the jumping hour and retrograde minute face side of the Virtuoso V watch. I’m a fan of reading the time in this manner and find it to be very convenient. Closer to the center of the dial is the window that displays the current hour. It is known as “jumping” because when the next hour is up, the disc under the window immediately jumps to the next hour position. Above this window is a retrograde minute indicator, which is remarkably legible given its size. The rest of the dial has some “extra” language on the dial which is not really necessary. Does “Five Days” (or the French equivalent) really need to be on the dial? That information, by the way, refers to the power reserve of the movement.

The other side of the watch case has a face which is a bit more traditional and technical looking. Here we see a more open view of the manually-wound Bovet movement, along with some additional complications. It might seem that both dials should indicate the same time, but the movement allows you to set each of the time dials separately. Though the system to do this isn’t super elegant because it requires moving the crown in one direction to set the time on both dials.

Bovet Amadeo Virtuoso V Movement

Also included on the dial with the traditional 12-hour time is a subsidiary seconds hand as well as a power reserve indicator off to the left. The movement itself is the unsexily-named caliber 13BM11AIHSMR which operates at 3Hz (21,600 bph) with five days of power reserve. Bovet’s level of finishing is just a bit more industrial looking than I might want in such an “antiquity-styled” watch, but I think Bovet makes up for it in overall movement originality, a focus on symmetry, and the sheer prolific nature of all the many models they come out with all the time that often have their own specially designed mechanisms and character.

Aside from their fetish over extra cursive text all over their watch dials, I really admire Bovet’s sense of design and style. One might refer to products like this as “anti-tool watches.” The implication being that they aren’t designed for mere practicality or utility, but rather that they are intended to be impressive status statements and fodder for gearheads with a fascination for old-world artistry.

The sheer level of wearing options for the Amadeo case and the level of detailing in the movement and dials is enough for anyone interested in watches to find the Virtuoso V watch interesting. No doubt the style of the Amadeo case and Bovet’s particular artistic statements are not to everyone’s taste. That’s OK, Bovet probably likes it that way (and so should all of its product owners). Price for the Bovet Amadeo Virtuoso V reference ACHS016-50-P2018 (ACHS016) watch is $73,500 USD and each version is a limited edition of 100 pieces. bovet.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Bovet
>Model: Amadeo Fleurier Virtuoso V reference ACHS016-50-P2018 (as tested)
>Price: $73,500 USD
>Size: 43.5mm wide, 15.7mm thick
>When reviewer would personally wear it: When wanting to impress difficult-to-impress men, while at the same time wanting to remain a bit avant-garde.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone well-funded and indecisive who wants an interesting watch with more than one wearing option. Being a fan of jumping hour indicators probably helps when it comes to this specific Bovet model.
>Best characteristic of watch: Many stories to tell in just one product from the decorative techniques to the ways you can wear it. Surprisingly legible dials including the easy to read jumping hour/retrograde minute face. Comfortable on the wrist and the Amadeo case’s convertible tricks never fail to impress onlookers.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Lots of text on both dials, which is arguably superfluous. Design not to everyone’s tastes. Amadeo case’s multiple-wearing options won’t likely be used too often with most people wearing it on the wrist exclusively.