The classic-style dials are matched to classic-looking cases, only enlarged for today’s tastes. The two size options are both intended for men, and I think work to satisfy most of the target demographic. The all-polished steel cases are nicely made and comfortable with their curved lugs. However, the cases are thick, ranging from over 14mm to 16.5mm thick in this model. That is a thick watch, but it is intended to look large. Part of that has to do with the chronograph movements and domed sapphire crystal.
It is easy to like the retro-styled plunger chronograph pushers and wheel style crown that is wide and relatively flat. It is the type of crown you like to grasp and operate. The case is also water resistant to 50 meters. Baume & Mercier didn’t go with a case-fitted strap. It is true that doing so would go against the vintage theme, but I bet this watch would look great with a fitted strap that results in no gap between the case and the strap.
Through the rear of the watch, you have a view of the mechanical movement through a sapphire crystal exhibition case back window. Most Capeland models have three register chronographs and use the Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic movement. These models with two chronograph registers use a different, arguably more interesting movement. Inside this model is a Swiss La Loux-Perret caliber 8147-2 automatic. It is very nicely decorated (with blued screws, perlage, and Cotes de Geneve stripes) and while the chronograph is designed to only measure 30 minutes, it does have a flyback complication. The movement further has 42 hours of power reserve (pretty much the same as the 7753).
Lest we forget the inclusion of a date indicator, the smartly-concealed date window is located between 4 and 5 o’clock on a matching black disc. We like the beveled edges of the date window that offer a higher-end look to the overall presentation. This ref. 10068 and other Capeland models are designed to have mainstream appeal, but also give something to dedicated watch lovers seeing something more casual, but with character. These aren’t for everyone, but they are pretty well conceived and do a good job at emulating a look from the past in a modern skin with contemporary materials.
Baume & Mercier is among the more affordable Richemont Group owned brands and the Capeland collection features a pretty fair starting price of $4,350 for the other Capeland dial. In fact, $4,350 is the same price you pay for all the versions of the other dial, including both 42mm and 44mm wide cases, and whether the watch comes on a strap or bracelet. We’d call that decent. However, the step up to the models with this more traditional dial and La Joux-Perret movement pushes the price to $7,500. The solid rose gold model is $19,500. To us it feels like a large gap that would have seemed more natural at a maybe $1000 price difference. Nevertheless, if the price doesn’t bother you, it is a good looking and feeling watch. You can also purchase them online, direct from the brand. baume-et-mercier.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Baume & Mercier
>Model: Capeland 10068
>Price: $7,500 USD
>Size: 44mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Sometimes, sure.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Self-described vintage lovers who demand the reliability and size of a modern watch.
>Best characteristic of watch: Extremely effective modern emulation of a classic watch design.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Feels expensive given the prices of the rest of the collection.
