Yesterday, Audemars Piguet unveiled a slew of new watches that largely consisted of core collection models powered by fairly standard movements. While three-handed watches and chronographs are the bread and butter of AP’s modern lineup, the brand also certainly knows how to make complications, and just one day after announcing all of the new core models, Audemars Piguet is now giving us the complicated stuff.
Although the classic time-and-date version of the Royal Oak will always be the perennial fan-favorite, the Concept series (first introduced in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak) represents the most technologically advanced and “out there” designs in AP’s entire lineup. This is often seen as the collection where the brand goes to flex its manufacturing muscles and try out new ideas. Consequently, every single model in the Concept series features advanced materials, thoroughly contemporary designs, and heavy-hitter complications. The latest addition to the lineup is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date, which takes the core aesthetic of the iconic Royal Oak and transforms it into a highly complex and futuristic timepiece.
Crafted from titanium, the case of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date (Ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01) measures 43mm in diameter by a massive 17.4mm-thick, and it offers a highly modern and angular take on the classic octagonal shape of the Royal Oak. The entire case offers a curved profile to better correspond with the natural shape of the wrist, and features a mixture of sandblasted titanium surfaces with high-polished accents. Both sides of the case feature sculptural angular inserts that form the guards for the crown and pushers. Additionally, while the watch features the Royal Oak’s signature octagonal bezel with vertical brushing and eight exposed screws, both the profile of the bezel and the crystal that sits within it are curved to correspond with the overall shape of the case, creating an ultra-modern rendition of a classic and familiar design.
The screw-down winding crown at 3 o’clock, along with the two pushers flanking it and the additional pusher located at the 9 o’clock position are all crafted from black ceramic. The screw-on titanium caseback features a sapphire display window, and is slightly recessed into the middle case in order to preserve the watch’s curved profile. While the overall shape of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is very much in-line with the rest of the Concept series, the angular inserts on the side of the case and the high-polished faceted angles ultimately provide the watch with a noticeably more aggressive and angular appearance. Despite being highly complex from a technological standpoint, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is still categorically a sports watch, and it offers a middling 50 meters of water resistance to guard against daily incidental contact.
Given that the primary objective of the Concept series is to showcase the brand’s pioneering technology, the dial of the watch is highly open-worked in order to expose as much of the movement as possible. Cut from a plate of German silver, the dial draws its inspiration from the design of movement bridges, featuring a sandblasted black PVD surface with polished rhodium bevels. The white gold hands, hour-markers, date display, and GMT day/night disc are all finished with a luminous coating, while small pops of bright red and yellow are used for the markings of the chronograph and GMT function, respectively.
Surrounding the dial is an angled rehaut that features both a seconds track for the chronograph, and a tachymeter scale printed in white along the outermost periphery of the dial. While the face of the watch offers plenty of visual intrigue, arguably the most unusual feature about the dial is that it doesn’t have the brand’s name or logo anywhere on it. This helps keep the focus on the micro-mechanics that are visible through the numerous apertures in its surface.
While the case of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is certainly striking, the real focus of this model is its movement. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, the Caliber 4407 is based upon the brand’s Caliber 4401 flyback chronograph movement that was first launched in 2019. It represents Audemars Piguet’s first self-winding flyback chronograph equipped with a split-seconds mechanism. With that in mind, the Cal. 4407 had been significantly re-engineered to improve energy management, in order to allow the addition of the split seconds mechanism.
Along with displaying its secondary time zone within the sub-dial at the 3 o’clock location, the Cal. 4407 also features a new oscillator, and the split-seconds mechanism has been integrated into the center of the bearing mounting for the solid platinum oscillating weight. The benefits of relocating the split-seconds mechanism are twofold: in addition to allowing AP to reduce the overall height of the movement, the operation of the split-seconds wheel and two actuating clamps can be clearly viewed through the sapphire window in the display caseback.
Completing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is a black rubber strap with gray inserts that continue the angular lines of the case and create an impressively integrated appearance. The rubber strap connects to the case with a quick-release system that is integrated directly into the case (a first for the AP Concept collection), and the signed titanium triple-blade folding clasp also features quick-release connections so that it can be easily swapped during strap changes. Included with the watch is an additional all-black rubber strap, and Audemars Piguet also plans to sell two additional black rubber straps for the Concept series that have either bright red or yellow accents for those who wish to lean into the small pops of color on the dial.
When it comes to pricing, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is officially listed as “Price Upon Request” (which is somewhat to be expected given the ultra-exclusive nature of the model). However, upon inquiry, it was disclosed that the official retail price for the new model is CHF 170,000 (which converts to approximately $184,000 USD at the time of writing). One of my pet peeves within the watch industry is when brands withhold pricing information. Rather than saying “price upon request” (which only tells us that it will undoubtedly be expensive), they should just say “we’d rather not disclose it” — or better yet, “if you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it.” That said, virtually any time you see the words “price upon request,” you can almost guarantee that the watch will be accompanied by a six-figure (or more) price tag. Given the massive margins that exist with such an expensive watch, I’m sure the exact retail price is open to negotiation, should you actually wish to purchase one. Rather than representing the future of the Royal Oak collection, AP’s Concept series could really be seen as a collection of prototype halo pieces (despite the fact that they are available for purchase). The ultra-modern and angular appearance of the new Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT Large Date is never going to replace the design of the classic Royal Oak, but the new technology showcased in its movement will more than likely end up making its way throughout the rest of the collection in the coming years. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
