ZACH PIÑA: SINN 556 I B
In a perfect world, a dress watch would be three things: thin, time-only, and in precious metal. Oh, and hand-wound. So maybe four things. But in that same perfect world, dive watches would be reserved exclusively for diving and pilot watches for flight crew, but that just ain’t a reality for most folks, so why should dress watches be held to the same impossible standards? Despite my intense love for the perennially excellent but impractical Piaget Altiplano, or its distant value-driven cousin Montblanc Heritage Chronometre Ultra Slim, if the success of the Porsche Cayenne is any indicator, single-purpose luxury is out, and crossover versatility is in – at every price point.
So if you don’t already own a tuxedo, and your watch budget is tied to the $1,000 threshold, it makes far more sense to find something that can do more than hoist martinis at the Met Gala. Which brings me to the Sinn 556 I B – a flat-out gorgeous “instrument” watch (Sinn’s terminology, not ours) rendered in an electroplated sunburst blue dial with applied markers. It’s also super-wearable at 38.5mm by 11mm thick and surprisingly adventure-ready with 200m of water resistance, making it the wristwatch equivalent of the BMW 3-Series: eminently classic German design, and perfectly capable for more than one occasion, should the need arise.
ZEN LOVE: TISSOT BALLADE POWERMATIC 80 COSC
Even as someone who enjoys simple, “dress” watches and happily wears them with any type of clothing, I had a hard time choosing a watch in this category – especially after Kenny beat me to the Hamilton Intra-Matic. Kenny [shaking fist]! You will see watches on this list with Swiss mechanical movements and other solid specs. But you won’t see many such watches with COSC chronometer accuracy certification and some of the other features offered by the Tissot Ballade Powematic 80 COSC at under $1,000.
Once a feature of only quite high-end watches, the Tissot Ballade Powematic 80 COSC’s movement even includes a silicon balance spring which is notable for its antimagnetic and wear-resistant benefits. The revolutionary (I don’t think it’s a stretch to call it that) Powermatic 80 movement is the Swatch group’s new upgraded version of the ETA 2824 with a power reserve of 80 hours. The Tissot Ballade Powematic 80 COSC is unusual for offering some horological interest at under $1,000, but it is also has appreciated features like applied numerals, sapphire crystal, an exhibition caseback, 50m of water-resistance, and even a metal bracelet. The two-tone version inches above the $1,000 mark, but it is hard to say the Tissot Ballade Powematic 80 COSC is not interesting or a good value.
MICHAEL PEÑATE: ORIENT BAMBINO SMALL SECONDS
Even though I’m not the kind of person that regularly reaches for a “dress” watch, I have to say, the Orient Bambino Small Seconds is a piece that has been occupying quite a bit of mental space for me lately. Orient holds a special place in my heart, and like a lot of watch enthusiasts, an early version of their popular Mako diver served as my first mechanical watch. So when I heard that Orient had revamped their popular Bambino collection and released the “Small Seconds” version, I knew I had to start paying attention and find a way to justify having one in the collection. Shortly after, Ariel declared it as one of the best budget dress watches around, and I have to agree.
When prying around in the sub-$1,000 range I try to find as much overt value as possible – because really, this territory can be full of junk. With a recently redesigned in-house caliber F6222 movement, a range of dial color and case options, and classic proportions, the Orient Bambino Small Seconds makes it easy to own a solid, versatile dress watch. So easy, in fact, that you could probably pick one up together with one of Orient’s new Triton divers without making much of a dent in the bank account. Above all, the watch is executed beautifully and even the date window fits in its own practical space without cutting into the Arabic numerals or really throwing off the symmetry. Personally, I’d shoot for the natural steel cased version with the white dial and would proudly recommend it to any kind of potential watch buyer, no matter where they are in their collecting journey.
KENNY YEO: HAMILTON INTRA-MATIC
My pick for top mechanical dress watch under $1,000 has got to be the Hamilton Intra-Matic. I like it so much, I bought one myself. First of all, let’s get one thing straight, the Intra-Matic is available in 42mm and 38mm, but you absolutely have to get the latter. 42mm is just way too big for a dress watch and I think the proportions of that watch are off the mark. The 38mm version, on the other hand, is almost perfect. Now, the Intra-Matic is my pick for a couple of reasons. To begin, it is remarkably thin, measuring just 10mm thick. The reason for its svelteness is because it is powered by an ETA-2892 movement. It is markedly thinner than its close relative the ETA 2824 and you won’t find it in too many watches at this price point. But most of all, I love this watch for its proportions and its dial. Like I said, 38mm is the perfect size for a dress watch, and the dial is simple and harmonious. There’s no unnecessary flourish here, just a vintage Hamilton logo at 12 o’clock, plain stick hour markers, hour and minute hands, and an unobtrusive date window at 6 o’clock. Best of all, it can be easily found for way under $1,000, which makes the Hamilton Intra-Matic all the more tantalizing.
TRAVIS CANNATA: JUNGHANS MAX BILL
When it comes to dress watches, admittedly, I’m of the school of thought that “less is more.” That being said, the juggernauts of Bauhaus designs have long been the most appealing to me, and few do them as well as Junghans in the less-than-$1,000 segment. The Junghans Max Bill is a reserved, albeit charming dress watch that’s easy to fit with a suit or shorts.
The minimalist design is my favorite to pair with a suit and the simple three-hand models certainly don’t come without any character. The domed crystals accentuate the 38mm cases well and you won’t be struggling to slide it under a cuff. I have always felt the Junghans Max Bill is a low-key statement watch that says “I’m a design junky and a watch enthusiast.”