German über watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne has just released a new version of its mega Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon watch. The first version, in platinum and with a black dial as we saw hands-on here, was released in 2016. It was a limited edition of 100, and it was snapped up quickly by well-heeled Lange connoisseurs who wanted, what many regarded to be, the ultimate expression of the Datograph. Fortunately, if you missed out on that one, the brand now has a new A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon version in white gold and with a pink gold dial, once again limited to 100 watches.
Specifications
Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
Dimensions: 41.5mm diameter; 14.6mm height
Case Material: White gold
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: Caliber L952.2
Frequency: 2.5Hz
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched dark brown alligator
Price & Availability: Limited to 100 pieces
Analysis
We always knew the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon would be back. What we didn’t know was when and in what form. Now we do. What to make of this, then?
The case dimensions and dial layout are unchanged, so let’s begin by considering its technicalities. This is essentially a Datograph with a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon. In other words, it’s a flyback chronograph with a jumping minute counter, an oversized date, a perpetual calendar, and a moon phase display that is accurate to 122.6 years – as well as a tourbillon that makes a revolution every minute. The impressive thing is that it is all integrated – no modular nonsense here. This is A. Lange & Söhne, and they do things the proper way. Also, the movement architecture is bonkers and it is immaculately finished.
The dial layout was perfect the first time around, so there’s no need to make any changes. Despite the wealth of information that it displays, the dial is actually quite clean, sensible, and legible. More importantly, there is a symmetry and harmony to everything. However, I’m not sure the decision to go with pink gold is going to go down well with the Lange faithful. From the press photos at least, it looks like salmon, and traditionally, salmon dials have been associated with Pateks more than Langes. But, I’m going to reserve my final judgment until I see photos of it in the flesh. For now, consider me skeptical.
Summary
This is Lange’s love letter to its most moneyed collectors. Its technicalities cannot be faulted but the choice of a pink gold dial does raise some questions. Even if it doesn’t come off as salmon, there is the suspicion that it might be a little loud, and that I think goes against the philosophy of the watch. The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon should be an understated watch, why else would they conceal the tourbillon and make it visible only from the rear? Personally, I find the platinum version with the black dial to be more aesthetically pleasing and coherent. Still, I’m sure this watch will find its fans. The new A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in white gold and with a rose gold dial is limited to 100 pieces and we will update with prices when they are disclosed. Learn more at alange-soehne.com
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