Laurent Ferrier fans extol the brand for creating what they see as the quintessential dress watch with the Galet and Galet Square lines. Watches like the Galet Classic Square Sector Dial Tourbillon Double Spiral (hands-on here) won praise for their clean, simplistic dials, and discreet tourbillons visible only from the watch’s rear – a classic stealth-wealth move. However, it seems that some people who buy tourbillon watches might want to actually see the tourbillon more readily – and for it to be seen. Laurent Ferrier is answering fans’ calls with the release of the Galet Classic Tourbillon Watch for SIHH 2017. What’s different this time around is that there’s a bit more to look at on the dial side.
Still housed in pristine 18K non-rhodium-plated white gold, this Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon is a moderate 41mm that is somewhere between sizes and might be just right for many. Water resistance is 30m, and a sapphire crystal rests on top as well as the case back for an even more intimate view into the movement.
A satin-brushed chapter ring encircles the dial that serves as a nice counterbalance to the vertically brushed finish in the dial’s center, while everything is topped off with a railroad minute track. The “assegai-shaped” hands are also 18k white gold and are treated with black ruthenium for a delicate sheen.
The movement at work here is the hand-wound calibre LF 619.03 that has been chronometer-certified and ticks away at 21,600vph. The LF 619.03 has an 80-hour power reserve and is just 5.57mm thick. The real beauty here, though, is the tourbillon which is now visible from the dial side for the wearer’s (and others’) benefit.
Naturally the star of the show, the tourbillon features a bridge with two supporting arms and is shot-blasted and polished by hand for an even sleeker appearance. The mechanism itself boasts a bottom-cage bridge that alone takes 15 hours to finish. It also encapsulates a variable-geometry balance and features gold screws in the design. The result is an airy take on the tourbillon that has just enough space in the dial to assimilate into the entire composition of the piece.
For those who so loved the Galet Classic and even the Galet Square, the Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon offers a great view into the fine mechanics of a piece that many applaud for its understated elegance. Not too flashy and just enough of the original in its DNA, this update should find itself welcome among collectors who appreciate an element of dazzle on an otherwise restrained dress watch. The Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon is paired with a seductive hand-sewn dark-blue alligator leather strap with an Alcantara lining and an 18k white gold clasp. Price is $208,000. laurentferrier.com