The 985 has a full perpetual calendar complication that is displayed beautifully. It also happens to include a highly accurate moon phase indicator, as well a “security window” that tells you when it is unsafe to adjust the calendar settings. This is a small window right above the hands that turns red during certain hours of the night to warn that setting the calendar items could damage the movement. Dials are used to indicate the date, month, and date of the week, while there is a full four digit date indicator window (which is also used for the movement to know when there is a leap year. The entire arrangement of subdials and information is wonderfully symmetrical as a testament to the brand’s ability to consistently design highly refined yet complication dials.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantieme Perpetuel watch was debuted as a solid platinum limited edition “Jubilee” version as the ref. 5046520. This is followed up with this 18 pink gold version that in my opinion edges out the platinum version with regard to handsome looks. I just feel that the warmth of the gold benefits the overall look just a bit better. The best part of the dial is probably the finishes and the hands. The beautiful dauphine hands are properly sized and highly legible. The textured opaline face of the watch further creates an ideal situation for color contrast and low light reflectivity. It makes the watch look high-end while really emphasizing dial legibility. The lower part of the dial is slightly recessed after a step because of the depth of the tourbillon. It helps give the wearer more of a view into the tourbillon, and prevents it from looking like it is buried in the dial–a clever design tactic for sure.

At 42mm wide, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantieme Perpetuel wears nicely on the wrist and is a great size. At 13.1mm thick, it is more the size of a sport watch versus a dress watch, but it isn’t at all unweildly. Of course what you get is not only a high-complication watch that is water resistant to 50 meters, but also an amazingly designed mechanical movement that has 431 parts. That is more than double most mechanical movements. Power reserve is a standard 48 hours.

Wonderfully proportioned and fanatically well-detailed, the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantieme Perpetuel is a real watch-lover’s watch, with a solid value proposition and character that I cannot begin to imagine would espouse any controversy. If you are in the market for a high-complication watch from a solid brand that you actually want to wear, then the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantieme Perpetuel is certainly something for your short list. Price for this Jaeger-LeCoultre ref. 5042520 is $143,000. jaeger-lecoultre.com