Introduced in 2006, the Chopard L.U.C XP has been one of the brand’s most elegantly simple dress watches. Last year, we had a chance to see refined and updated versions of the Chopard L.U.C XPS (the “S” designation refers to the inclusion of a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock) watch in stainless steel, 18ct rose and white gold – plus there is also a version in platinum with a blue dial which also boasts the Geneva Seal. The new XPS watches all take on some of the more “signature” characteristics of the L.U.C line while there are distinct updates unique to each of the three watches.
Images by David Bredan.
What’s unchanged is the size of the 40mm-wide and 7.2mm-thick case. However, Chopard has made minor modifications by trimming down the lugs so the watch sits more comfortably on the wrist. Additionally, they have domed the sapphire crystal on the dial. The intention here was to have the softly domed crystal slip under a sleeve more smoothly.
A significant change in the refreshed Chopard L.U.C XPS line will be the new fusee Dauphine-type hands that are replacing the outgoing classic-Dauphine hands. These angular, three-dimensional hands provide a more modern look, with the hour-markers shaped as raised and facetted arrows. These hands are similar to those we saw in models released earlier this year, like the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer’s watch. Definitely an upgrade for the XPS. Another change you’ll notice on the dial is that the text “Chronometer” is now written under the brand logo. This is found in higher end Chopard L.U.C watches and elevates these pieces’ prestige.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS in stainless steel has a grained white dial texture that is new. The snailed small seconds sub-dial and rhodium-plated hands, indices, and appliques all come together in an attractive and conservative dial.
The stainless steel XPS features the automatic L.U.C 96-50-L Calibre which can be seen through the case back. This movement measures 27.4mm in diameter and is 3.3mm thick. Like all the pieces in this collection and many others, the double barrel or “Twin” technology is employed in this movement. Operating at 28,800 vph, it achieves a 58-hour power reserve. Other features of the movement are a flat balance spring and, of course, Côtes de Genève work down on the bridges.
We see a black dial used for the 18ct white gold model and a silver-toned dial for the 18ct rose gold watch. Both of these feature a new sunburst dial that make these pieces more radiant than the stainless steel model. The white and rose gold Chopard L.U.C XPS watches house the automatic L.U.C 96.12-L calibre. This movement is also 27.4mm in diameter and 3.3mm thick. This movement boasts a 22ct gold stamped micro-rotor, the double barrel Twin technology, a flat balance spring, and Côtes de Genève on the bridges. Operating at 28,800 vph, there is a substantial 65-hour power reserve.
Finally, the platinum model features a galvanic blue dial with sunburst satin-brushed dial finishing in addition to the Rhodium-plated hands, numerals, and indices. In addition to the case material, the movement is what distinguishes this piece from the others. The Chopard L.U.C 96.01-L calibre features the Geneva Seal (also known as Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Hallmark) which is reserved for movements with the highest level of decoration quality and are also is tested for accuracy, water resistance, power reserve, and performance. The 96.01-L calibre features a swan neck regulator, a balance spring with Philips curve, and of course Côtes de Genève work on the bridges. Operating at 28,800 vph, this movement has a power reserve of 65 hours.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS in stainless steel (Ref. 168591-3001) is priced at $8,470. The models in rose gold (Ref. 161948-5001) and white gold (Ref. 161948-1001) are priced at $16,500. Finally, the Chopard L.U.C XPS in platinum (Ref. 161946-9001) is priced at $26,800. Learn more at chopard.com
