There is a distinct and pronounced romance to having a complete mechanical “tool” on the wrist just as it was meant to be, complete with analog goodness and tactile pleasure. While a hand-operated chronograph mixed with a slide-rule calculator bezel on a wrist watch (not to mention a spring-powered way of tracking the time) offers little precision value in today’s data-obsessed world, the analog versus digital nature of the information display is more akin to how our own brains perceive reality. Thus, watches like the Breitling Navitimer, along with many corresponding watches, are not defeated by their lack of modernity and obsolescence because we as people have yet to come up with something better to replace the familiar approachability of a mechanical versus electronic machine.
In my opinion, a collection like the Breitling Navitimer so epitomizes the above ideals that it has remained an important part of the watch design landscape for so long. It really isn’t about the appeal of flight and challenge of being a pilot. It is more about the calculations inherent in being a human being who takes advantage of the natural world above and beyond the limit of our own internal senses thanks to the use of tools.
You might argue that I am going too deep into analyzing the appeal of the Navitimer or mechanical watches in general. Perhaps, my level of analysis is deeper than some, but that otherwise very capable and intelligent people are nevertheless obsessed with well-made, last-generation technology is something which deserves a lot of contemplation (and answers), as far as I am concerned. I’m really dedicated to getting to the bottom of this watch love we share!
At 43mm wide (14.25mm thick and water resistant to 30 meters) in 18k red gold, the fully polished Navitimer case has rarely looked any better. At first, I was concerned that the black, white, and gold colors together (with hints of red) might result in a watch palette with too many colors – but in execution it does not. Despite the obvious dial clutter and mish-mash of fonts, markers, hands, finishes, and tones, the Breitling Navitimer 01 in gold pulls everything off famously. Some of its best moments are really simple in nature such as viewing the contrasting subdials (panda dial) from afar in a mirror (and appreciating how cool they look) as well as enjoying how the light plays with the hands and applied hour markers on the dial through the domed AR-coated sapphire crystal.
This “modest size” for a Breitling Navitimer is going to work well for most people as the proportions are just right. Make the Navitimer larger, as in the Breitling Navitimer 01 46mm, and things still look good but only if you have a very large-sized wrist to support the additional size. This isn’t the type of watch you need to inherently “wear large” for it to look good. You already have the benefit of a rather thin bezel which maximizes the visible dial size.
Legibility is better than you’d expect given the dial complexity. Little touches such as the recessed subsidiary dials and general use of matte surfaces (outside of the hands and hour markers) allow the Navitimer to retain a very functional look. Breitling is of course rather proud of the applied 18k red gold “B with wings” logo under 12 o’clock. I also like how the date does not interfere with any of the indicators.
Given the primarily functional essence of the Navitimer, it does not ever come across as a “blingy” watch despite attention-grabbing features such as an entirely polished case and, in this instance, being rendered in 18k red gold. Steel and gold Navitimer wearers can get along and be seen together with more or less the same wrist presence. The gold version just says “at heart I am a tool watch guy, but I had enough money to treat myself to a gold watch, so I did.” Nothing about this type of timepiece feels like it is meant to show off, being an item chosen for very personal reasons – which is another reason why I think Breitling continues to find success in the Navitimer collection.
The Breitling in-house Caliber 01 movement is a very reliable and capable automatic chronograph that serves as a nice upgrade over the Valjoux 7750 available in the base model of the Navitimer World. With its classic symmetrical “tri-compax” register chronograph layout, the 01 movement offers a full 12-hour chronograph along with the time and date with a 70-hour maximum power reserve operating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800bph). It is actually quite a good-looking movement, and unfortunately, this version of the Breitling Navitimer 01 does not have an exhibition caseback. I have seen some other models of the Navitimer with in-house movements that do have sapphire crystal caseback windows, but this isn’t one of them.
My original fears about enjoying a Breitling Navitimer were based on the fact that I worried I might find the slide-rule distracting and not useful, and also that I might not find the dial legible enough. I am happy to say that after a fair amount of wear, I don’t consider either of these issues to take away from my core appreciation of the brand. While I can’t say that I’ve taken the time to use the slide-rule, I do love turning the smooth bezel, and the dial legibility (as well as luminant) have been surprisingly good. I also happen to find the gold print on the black dial to be sort of cool on this 18k red gold model.
If you can afford a gold Breitling Navitimer, then it might be worth your while to get one if the above review appealed to you. Otherwise, a steel version will work very well, and with Breitling’s in-house movement, you get something with a lot of historical value from the brand in a modern package that is still very much a totally “Breitling product.” It isn’t for everyone, but the Breitling Navitimer 01 is a well-made and handsome, masculine timepiece that comes with all the horolgoical and historic appeal you could ask for in a recognizable timepiece that is still also sexy and cool. The Breitling Navitimer 01 ref. RB012012|BA49|435X|R20BA.1 in 18k red gold is priced at $20,805. breitling.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Breitling
>Model: Navitimer 01 reference RB012012|BA49|435X|R20BA.1
>Price: $20,805
>Size: 43mm x 14.25mm
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Solid model for anyone who loves the idea of a very traditional tool watch or is looking to create a collection of watch design greats.
>Best characteristic of watch: Pulls off being comfortable and legible, despite a busy dial. Good mixture of Breitling heritage and modern production capability. Handsome dial design.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Some feel that dial is still too cluttered. Slide-rule is a niche-use feature at best. Arguably too many versions available, making choosing a Navitimer model difficult for many consumers.
